Man eater of Jowlagiri -A walk back

Man eater of Jowlagiri -A walk back

Please explore the narrative "Man-Eater of Jowlagiri" by Kenneth Anderson. Throughout his adventures in the Anchetty/Cauvery Sanctuary, Anderson encountered numerous formidable creatures, including man-eating leopards, aggressive elephants, and man-eating tigers. I found his tales immensely captivating, prompting me to explore these locations both virtually and physically. The virtual exploration, through photographs and Google Earth imagery, brings immense joy alongside the reading experience. This particular story revolves around a man-eating tigress in the villages of the Anchetty Basin, which serves as the focal point for many of Anderson's narratives. I have attempted to include excerpts from the book in my articles to stimulate your interest, yet nothing can compare to the genuine pleasure derived from reading the work in its entirety.

A sole bike trip

During the second and third days of my solo motorcycle  journey, I explored Jawalagiri and Anchetty, which I regard as significant areas of activity of KA. The month was June, and the monsoon had commenced, casting its enchanting spell over the landscape, resulting in lush greenery all around. Fortunately or unfortunately, throughout my entire trip, I did not encounter any heavy rainfall akin to that experienced in Kerala. I arrived at Jawalagiri from Sangama via a shortcut and proceeded to ride leisurely through the Jawalagiri Reserve Forest. The roads were well-maintained and devoid of traffic, with warning signs for wildlife placed by the forest department along the route.

Road bisecting Jawalagiri  Reserve forest

A waterhole  for wild animals in Jawalagiri  Reserve forest

A  Warning boards for wild animals from forest department

Jawalagiri Forest Bungalow,Which mentioned in story Man eater of Jawalagiri and where KA stayed.

Here I went straight to forest  office, and ranger or forester were not present in office.  Lots of confusion over allotting FB  to me, because of forest department was vigilant on strangers due to some operations of "junior Veerappan" ( he was arrested just days before my trip,, I was unaware about this story.) and suspected maoists. Moreover, I was alone and from another state. 

The forest guards were so courteous, and  helped me a lot. I got lot of  new information from them and from some villagers. Wild animals are now rare here, and some poachers are active in the entire area.sometimes they are armed with mathlocks  brave to threaten the officials on duty.  Later I walked the little town of Jawalagiri and met some people.  

 Next day morning, stared to ride to Sulagunta and Anchetty. the road is newly  paved nicely, all along the way.

 I intended to visit the renowned Jallamari Amman Kovil located in the Salakunta forest. However, I arrived at the temple after traveling only 4 kilometers from Jawalagiri. Consequently, the actual location is considerably distant from Soolakunta. I recalled that KA mentioned this route was quite challenging and winding, yet my journey was remarkably smooth. I speculated that he might have taken an alternate forest path leading up to the temple.

A tree near the temple.

Road from Temple to Salukunta

The location

Jawalagiri is a Village in Thally Taluk in Krishnagiri District of Tamil Nadu State, India

It is located 73 KM towards west from District head quarters Krishnagiri

7 KM from Thally

337 KM from State capital Chennai Sarandapalli ( 6 KM ) , Ballapalli ( 8 KM ) , Nallasandram ( 9 KM ) , Devarulimangalam ( 9 KM ) , Kakkadasam ( 10 KM ) are the nearby Villages to Jawalagiri

Jawalagiri is surrounded by Kelamangalam Taluk towards East , Kanakapura Taluk towards west , Hosur Taluk towards North , Shoolagiri Taluk towards East

Bangalore , Ramanagaram , Malur , Malavalli are the nearby Cities to Jawalagiri

Demographics of Jawalagiri Tamil is the Local Language here.



Jawalagiri town.



village   Jawlagiri

The tigress

The tigress first made her presence known by calling in the vicinity of a village in the Jowlagiri Forest Range, after a poacher killed her mate. After a week, a young hunter named Jack Leonard arrived at the village and concealed himself behind an anthill near to sole path to the  Forest Bungalow  at 5 in the afternoon. At 6:15, Leonard spotted the animal and fired at her, wounding her shoulder. The tigress bounded off into the impenetrable jungle, where the terrain proved too harsh for Leonard to pursue her.

A board,near to the path  tothe  Forest Bungalow.

A few months later, at the village of Sulekunta seven miles from Jowlagiri, the tigress claimed her first human victim; a boy aged sixteen, whilst picking acid fruits.

 

The Diversion towards Sulakunta,Anchetty from Jawalagiri.

Other attacks

Kenneth Anderson was informed of the subsequent attacks by the Sub-Collector of Hosur. By this time, 15 people, including three girls, one just married, had been killed by the tigress. Anderson journeyed from Jowlagiri to Sulekunta, hoping to find fresh tracks, but was unsuccessful. . Anderson received three domestic buffalo baits from the Sub-Collector; the first of which he tied near a river in Gundalam, the second he tied to a path leading to the nearby village of Anchetty four miles away, the third he tied near a watershed. Anderson explored the forest with his .405 Winchester, finding fresh tracks two days later on the sand of the Gundalam river. The buffalo was alive and untouched. The next day, a group of men from a hamlet a mile south of Anchetty, saying that a man had been killed by the tigress in his cattle pen. Upon arriving at Anchetty, Anderson followed the tigress’ trail, where he found the victim’s body dragged deep into the surrounding jungle. Positioning himself above the corpse on a high ledge, Anderson hoped to catch the tigress when she returned to finish her meal. After waiting several hours in the dark, Anderson sensed the tigress’ presence, and upon turning around, saw the tigress above him, ready to pounce. Anderson missed, blowing one of the tigress’ ears off, causing her to retreat from the site.

Click images for a bigger view.

A morning scene from Soolagunta

Village Soolagunta described as Sulekunta

A village road to Soolagunta from Jawalagiri. courtesy: The Psychelist

Anchetty basin ans its Relation in Google and  KA map  of  Jowalagiri, spot of tiger killed, sulekunta and Anchetty.

Anderson's preparations and long treks.

Anderson moved camp to Gundalam 23 miles away at the southern limit of the affected area, where the majority of attacks had been reported. Seven herdsman had been taken in this area in the previous four months

A village road to Anchetty coutesy: The Psychlist 2009



Newly tarred road to Sulakunta, Anderson journeyed from Jowlagiri to Sulekunta, hoping to find fresh tracks,but in vein.

Road to Anchetty from Sulakunta. Anchetty  area can be seen on left side .

THE THREE BUFFELOES AND ITS POSITIONS

 Anderson received three domestic buffalo baits from the Sub-Collector; the first of which he tied near a river in Gundalam, the second he tied to a path leading to the nearby village of Anchetty four miles away, the third he tied near a watershed. Anderson explored the forest with his .405 Winchester, finding fresh tracks two days later on the sand of the Gundalam river. The buffalo was alive and untouched.

Position OF FIRST BUFFELLO



The waterhole which used by both villagers and wild animals(KA),now dried up

Position OF SECOND AND THIRD BUFFELLOES

But later KA realized that this tiger is no  passion to buffaloes and all  his efforts were futile.



THE WAY TO GUNDALAM

A village road to Anchetty coutesy: The Psychlist

Anderson Met the Man Eater

The next day, a group of men from a hamlet a mile south of Anchetty, saying that a man had been killed by the tigress in his cattle pen. Upon arriving at Anchetty, Anderson followed the tigress’ trail, where he found the victim’s body dragged deep into the surrounding jungle. Positioning himself above the corpse on a high ledga narrow horizontal surface projecting from rock), Anderson hoped to catch the tigress when she returned to finish her meal. After waiting several hours in the dark, Anderson sensed the tigress’ presence, and upon turning around, saw the tigress above him, ready to pounce. Anderson missed, blowing one of the tigress’ ears off, causing her to retreat from the site.



Anchetty Town. photo taken in front of Forest office.

Gundalam

Never depend on your  GPS

I approached the Anchetty forest office to request permission to explore specific areas of interest. My intention was to investigate Gundalum, the riverbed, and the rock where KA had waited for a tiger beside a deceased buffalo. Unfortunately, my application was promptly denied, as all senior officials were attending to official matters in Hogenakkal. (I later learned that they had apprehended some poachers in that region.) Despite my disappointment, I resolved to proceed to the waterhole and Guntalum village, located to the south of Anchetty, near the forest boundary. My GPS and Google Maps accurately indicated the locations, and I decided to continue my journey by crossing the river. The knee-deep water and large rocks presented some challenges during the crossing. Villagers informed me that the pond was situated approximately one and a half kilometers away, beyond a small village. The distance felt considerable, but I eventually arrived at the pond mentioned by KA, where he had tethered the second buffalo. Although I had a strong desire to venture deeper into the forest, I remained at the border for about ten minutes due to the lack of permission. The villagers at the ford assured me that there were no wild elephants in the forest at present. I observed herds of cattle emerging from the forest along narrow paths. I was seeking boys or villagers to assist me as guides in my endeavor, but there was not a single person in sight. Google Maps indicated some tracks leading into the shrub forest, and I calculated that I could navigate to those areas with the help of GPS. Ultimately, I made a regrettable decision to proceed further. I started my bike and followed the trails created by the cattle.In just ten minutes, I realized that navigating through the jungle presents considerable difficulties. Following the monsoon rains, the underbrush has flourished, with new branches emerging and significantly obstructing the pathways. I came across numerous trails that seemed to be of similar width. I turned right to head towards the river. After traveling approximately one kilometer, I reached a point where continuing on my bike was no longer feasible. I secured my bike near a small hill and made the second mistake of proceeding on foot alone. This decision was influenced by my phone's indication of an almost precise location, coupled with the audible sound of flowing water nearby. I estimated that the river was approximately fifty meters away.

I treaded carefully, trying to mark my way at each track intersection. However, it quickly became clear that this was impractical, as the forest was filled with countless intertwining paths. At a crucial moment, my phone froze, and the GPS stubbornly displayed the same location. The sun beat down on me, and I was drenched in sweat from carrying my backpack. I ventured down a few trails but felt a growing sense of unease, realizing I couldn't continue without my GPS. When I decided to abandon my plan to reach the rock, I looked around, only to find that everything seemed identical. I had completely lost my sense of direction. In a moment of panic, I retraced my steps back to my bike. My footprints guided me for about 25 meters, but then I lost them too. Confused and alone in the jungle, with a dead GPS, I wandered for half an hour, always keeping the parked bike in my mind. Every path looked the same, and I was overwhelmed with fear and frustration for losing my way. After resting in the shade of a tree, I walked in one direction for about 20 minutes. My confidence had vanished, and I hesitated, wondering if I was heading the wrong way. That thought sent a chill down my spine, and in my desperation, I took a two-minute break to collect myself under a tree. Suddenly, a glint of metal caught my eye about 10 meters to my right. It was my bike! Fortunately, I had been walking in the right direction without realizing it. I jumped on the bike and rode back toward the path leading to Guntalum, feeling a mix of guilt and relief, reminding myself that Mother Nature had taught me a lesson.

Every where looked  same .

Well, we will return to the story:

This part of the story is interesting, Let us hear from KA'S language:

The afternoon wore slowly on, the heat from the blazing sun beating directly on the exposed rock and bathing Anderson in sweat. Looking down the nullah in both directions, all was still and nothing disturbed the rays of shimmering heat that arose from the baked earth. Absence of vultures could be accounted for by the fact that, in the position the tigress had left it beneath the sharply-sloping rock, the body was hidden from the sky.

Night-watchmen

 The cheering calls of the jungle-cocks  and the strident 'ma-ow' of a peacock sounded from down the dry bed of the stream.

 Anderson welcomed the sound, for he knew that in the whole foresrt no more alert watchman than a peacock could be found and that he would warn me immediately of the tigress approach, should he see her. Now was the expected time,and with every sense intently alert he awaited the return of the man-killer. But nothing happened, the peacock flapped heavily away and dusk rapidly followed the vanquished day.

Waiting &Waiting; tigress was approaching

All at once the strident belling of an alarmed sambar broke the silence and was persistently followed by a succession of similar calls from a spot about half a mile away. These were followed by the sharp cry of spotted-deer, and echoed up the nullah by a restless brainfever bird,  His nerves and muscles for final action.K A'S friends,the night-watchmen of the jungle, had faithfully accomplished their task and  he knew the tigress was approaching and had been seen.

The calls then gradually died away. This meant that the tigress had passed out of the range of the callers and was now close by. He strained his  eyes on the the nullah, in  which, at any moment, he expected the man-eater to appear. But nothing happened. Thirty minutes passed, then forty-five, by the hands of his wrist-watch, clearly visible in the moonlight.

Sixth sense

He  thought; the tigress should have appeared long ago. She would not take forty-five minutes to cover half a mile.  And then a horrible feeling of imminent danger came over. Many times before he had that obscure sixth sense.The tigress discovered him and ready to sprung. KA prepared for  shoot.

The heavy blast of the rifle, level with and only a few inches from his ears, mingled with that roar  causes him to awaken, shivering with fear.

The tigress had not anticipated the presence of the ledge, while the blast and blinding flash of the rifle full in her face evidently  deflecting her aim and deviating her purpose from slaughter to escape. She leapt right over his head, and in passing her hind foot caught the muzzle of the rifle so that it was torn fall dully on the soft sand below, where it lay beside the half-eaten corpse. Quicker than the rifle, the tigress herself reached the nullah-bed, and in two bounds and another coughing roar was lost to view in the thickets of the opposite bank. Shocked and hardly aware of what had happened, KA realised and  descend after the rifle. He had a fear,that tigress would attack, if the animal were lying wounded in the bushes.

Second  hunt for the tigress

The temple as a camp

There was no time to make a proper camp, so KA and his men decided to sleep in the deserted front portion of the temple itself.

The proximity of a man-eater are apt to overcome all scruples and principles. Anderson stood guard with the loaded rifle, while his three men blazed wood and rotting logs that lay in plenty nearby, to build a fire for their warmth and protection, for on this occasion there was no friendly moon and it would soon be dark. Under such circumstances, attempting to sit-up for the man-eater, in the hope of its passing near the temple,were both highly dangerous and futile.

The Jallamariamman Temple in Forest. Forest station also be seen. The deity is believed too strong and animal sacrifice  is a normal ritual here. Pilgrims gather  in front of this temple  to scarify goats and cocks and distribute its flesh to everybody on Tuesdays.  

Before long, they had a lively fire crackling, providing warmth and light as they settled in on its inner side, safely distanced from the dark, foreboding jungle night that might have concealed a lurking murderer just a couple of feet away. They listened closely, occasionally catching the deep, resonant calls of sambar deer, while Anderson also picked up the harsher sound of a stag. However, the lack of a continuous echo indicated that the animals were not overly frightened by any threats in the Indian jungle.

The boulders around the temple,lies exactly as KA mentioned.

Third hunt for the tigress

Dry bed of Gundalum River, It was really difficult to cross in a bike. I fell down on both occationes but some friendly villagers helped me in rescuing myself.

Anderson remained in the locality of Gundalam for a further 10 days with no success in tracking the tigress. On the eleventh day, he left Gundalam for his home in Bangalore, promising the Sub-Collector that he would return should another attack be reported.
 Three months later, Anderson received a verified account of a tiger in Gundalam involving an old priest being killed at the door of a temple in Sulekunta. Anderson went to Gundalam to learn more of the attack. All eyewitnesses to the attack and others confirmed that the animal was missing an ear. Three days later, Anderson received news from Jowlagiri stating that the night-watchman of Jowlagiri Forest Reserve had also been killed. Knowing that the tigress would not strike at the same place twice in a row, Anderson returned to the temple at Sulekunta with 12 men. where the tigress was heard calling. Anderson imitated the calls, attracting the tigress to his location. When the tigress approached, Anderson recognised her by her missing ear. Before the tigress could realise the deception, Anderson fired his .405 into her forehead and finished the animal with a shot to the back of the neck.

Temple Premises where goats and cocks are sacrificed.

This time, however, they were not to spend a peaceful night. The sambar and kakur were restless from night-fall,and at 8.30 p.m.they heard a tiger calling from a spot to be half a mile away. This was repeated an hour later from quite close, and Anderson  could then easily distinguish the intonations of a tigress calling for a mate. The tigress had also seen the camp-fire and become aware of the proximity of humans and, obviously hoping for a meal, she twice circled the temple, her repeated mating calls being interspersed by distinctly audible grunts of anticipation.

Last walking way of a man eating Tigeress

I like to assume this lone tree, exactly quarter mile from the temple,and along the way is matching to the  shooting spot of the tigress.

Call of a Tiger

Anderson succeeded in keeping the Man eater in the vicinity till daylight. Twice he gave the answering call of a male tiger, and received at once the urgent summons of this imperious female. Indeed, she came to the edge of the clearing and called so loudly as almost to paralyze them all. He was careful, however, not to call while she was in the immediate vicinity, which might have aroused her suspicions. At the same time  Anderson instructed the men to talk rather loudly, and not over-stoke the already blazing fire, instructions which were most unwelcome. He hoped by these means, between mating urge and appetite, to keep the tigress in the vicinity till morning.

 The Shoot

 Anderson imitated the calls,and tigress was heard.  When the tigress approached, Anderson recognised her by her missing ear. Before the tigress could realise the deception, Anderson fired his .405 into her forehead and finished the animal with a shot to the back of the neck.

  Regret

Anderson allowed the people a short hour in which to feast their eyes. Then he returned to the village,where willing hands helped  to lash the tigress across the rear seat of his two-seater Studebaker, to begin  homeward journey with the comforting thought that he had lived down my error and avenged the deaths of many humans.

Anchetty Forest Bungalow,   dates befor 1950s,where KA stayed  in his visits to Anchetty. Probably same place  depicted in above pic of trophy of the Tiger with KA and  his car.

Anderson expressed regret at his strategy, having later written;

“The dreaded killer of Jowlagiri had come to a tame and ignominious end, unworthy of her career, and although she had been a murderer, silent, savage and cruel, a pang of conscience troubled me as to my unsporting ruse in encompassing her end.”

Ref: —“The Man-Eater of Jowlagiri”, from Nine Man-Eaters and One Rogue, Kenneth Anderson, Allen & Unwin, 1954

 For me, after visiting these places,I ended  up completely satisfied by the end of the day. I continued to Geratti and then Kempakarai,and that is another story.