Amritsar

കുടുബസമേതം ഒരു ഉത്തരേന്ത്യൻ സഫാരി
അമൃതസർ  ഒരു മാന്ത്രിക നഗരിയാണ്‌. പലതരം ആളുകൾ  ദിവസേന വന്നുപോകുന്ന ഈ പട്ടണത്തിന്റെ മുഖ്യ ആകർഷണമായ  സുവർണ ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ  വൈകുന്നേരം പോകാമെന്ന് വച്ചു .  വാഗാ ബോർഡർ  കണ്ടുകഴിഞ്ഞു എല്ലാവരും റൂമിലേക്ക്‌ പോയി ഫ്രഷ്‌ ആയി. നല്ലവണ്ണം വിശ ക്കുന്നുണ്ടെങ്കിലും  ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ നിന്ന് ഭക്ഷണം കഴിക്കാൻ വേണ്ടി  വയറിനു അവധി കൊടുത്തിരിക്കുകയാണ്.. തീര്താടകരുടെ  ബഹു ല്യം കാരണം  ഇവിടെ ഒരു കിലോമീറ്റർ ചുറ്റളവിൽ വാഹന ഗതാഗതം നിയന്ത്രിച്ചിരിക്കുക യാണ്.  ഞങ്ങൾ ബുക്ക്‌ ചെയ്ത് ഹോട്ടൽ റോബിൻ  ക്ഷേത്ര കവാടത്തിനു വളരെ അടുത്താണ്. കൃത്യമായി പറഞ്ഞാൽ  ജാലിയൻ  വാലാ ബാഗിന് മുൻപിൽ തന്നെ. പക്ഷെ എത്തുന്നതിനു 50 മീറ്റർ  മുന്പ് തന്നെ കാറിനെ പോലീസ്  തടഞ്ഞിരുന്നു.  500 മീറ്റർ അകലെ ഒരു മൾടി ലെവൽ കാർ  പാർകിങ്ങ്  ഉണ്ട്. ലഗേജ് എല്ലാംഎടുത്ത്  റൂമിലേക്ക് നടകേണ്ടി വന്നു. അപ്പോഴാണ് ഇലക്ട്രിക്‌ ഓട്ടോ പോലുള്ള ഒരു വണ്ടി വന്നത്. 40 രൂപ കൊടുത്തപ്പോൾ അവർ റൂമിലേക്ക് കൊണ്ടുവിട്ടു.  എല്ലാവരും വേഗം ഫ്രഷ്‌ ആയപ്പോൾ  ഗുരുദ്വാരയിലേക്ക്  ഞങ്ങൾ നീങ്ങി. തിരക്കേറിയ  തെരുവിൽ  നിറയെ വഴിവാണിഭക്കാർ.   അഛനും അമ്മയും നേരത്തെ ഇവിടെ വന്നിട്ടുണ്ട്. അവരുടെ ഈ പരിചയം  ഞങ്ങൾക്ക്  ഒട്ടേറെ ഗുണകരമായി.

ദീർഘമായ  ഞങ്ങളുടെ യാത്രയിൽ ഒരുവേള ഒഴിവാക്കിയാലോ എന്നാലോചിച്ചിരുന്നതാണ്  ഇവിടം. കാണാതിരുന്നെങ്കിൽ വലിയ നഷ്ടം ആകുമായിരുന്നു, എന്നുപറഞ്ഞാൽ ഊഹിക്കാമല്ലോ ഇവിടത്തെ ആകർഷണീയത . രാത്രിയും പകലും തുറന്നിരിക്കുന്ന ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ  രാത്രി കാഴ്ചക്ക് ആണ് കൂടുതൽ ഭംഗി എന്ന് തോന്നി. വൈദ്യുത ദീപങ്ങളാൽ ക്ഷേത്രത്തിലെ സ്വർണ താഴികകൂടം രാത്രിയിൽ തിളങ്ങുന്നത് കാണാൻ നല്ലരസം.
ഞായറാഴ്ച കുറച്ചു തിരക്ക് കൂടുതൽ ആയിരിക്കും ഇവിടെ. എങ്കിലും ഞങ്ങൾക്ക്  ഒരു ബുദ്ധിമുട്ടും അനുഭവപ്പെട്ടില്ല.വിശാലമായമണ്ഡപങ്ങൾ. ലക്ഷക്കണക്കിന് തീർത്ഥാടകർ. ആയിരക്കണക്കിന് സേവകർ. എത്ര ലക്ഷം പേർവന്നാലും എല്ലാവർക്കുംആഹാരം, കുടിവെള്ളം, പരിചരണം. ലക്ഷങ്ങൾവരുമ്പോഴും പരിസരങ്ങൾ ഏറ്റവും ശുദ്ധമായി  സൂക്ഷിച്ചിരിക്കുന്നു. അടിച്ചുവാരുന്നവരും കാർപെറ്റ് വൃത്തിയക്കുന്നവരും  സമൂഹത്തിലെ ഉന്നതർ ആണത്രേ. ഇവിടെ എത്തുമ്പോൾ അവർ  അവധൂതൻമാരുടെ മാനസിക അവസ്ഥയിലേക്ക് മാറുന്നു . കാലുകള്‍ കഴുകി പുരുഷന്മാരടക്കം തലമറച്ചുവേണം അതിനകത്തു പ്രവേശിക്കാന്‍.  ചെരുപ്പ് സൂക്ഷിക്കാന്‍  ഇവിടെ ഒരു നയാ പൈസയും കൊടുക്കേണ്ട. സിഖ് സഹോദരങ്ങളുടെ സന്നദ്ധ പ്രവര്‍ത്തനം.അവര്‍ നമ്മുടെ ചെളി പിടിച്ച ചെരുപ്പുകള്‍  കൊണ്ട് പോകുമ്പോള്‍ എളിമയുടെ ഒരു സന്ദേശം നല്‍കുന്നുണ്ട്.
ക്ഷേത്ര നടയിൽ പാതയില്‍ ജല പ്രവാഹം. അതില്‍ കാല്‍ മുക്കിയെ പോകാന്‍ ആക്കൂ. പാദത്തിലെ മാലിന്യങ്ങള്‍ ഈ ജലത്തില്‍ കൂടി നടക്കുമ്പോള്‍ തനിയെ പൊയ്ക്കോളും.   നല്ല തണുത്ത അന്തരീക്ഷം. കാഴ്ചകൾ കണ്ടും ഫോട്ടോ എടുത്തും അങ്ങിനെ നടന്നു.അടുത്ത് ഒരു ക്യൂ ഭക്ഷനത്തിനുള്ളതാണ്ഭക്ഷണ ശാലയിലക്ക്  നടന്നു. ഒരാള്‍ ഒരു സ്റ്റീല്‍ പ്ലേറ്റ് തന്നു മറ്റൊരാള്‍ ഒരു കുഴിയന്‍ പാത്രവും. ഒരു സ്ത്രീ സ്പൂണും തന്നു.
ഊട്ടുപുരയില്‍ നീണ്ട നിരകള്‍ .താഴെ നിറഞ്ഞപ്പോള്‍ ഞങ്ങളെ മുകള്‍ നിലയിലേക്ക് ആനയിച്ചു.
തറയില്‍  നീണ്ട  വിരിയുണ്ട് . അതില്‍ ഇരിക്കണം .നീണ്ട കുപ്പായമിട്ട സിഖ് സന്നദ്ധ സേവകര്‍ റൊട്ടിയുമായി വന്നു. ഇരു കയ്യും നീട്ടി വാങ്ങണം. അവര്‍ ഇട്ടു തരും. ഒരു കൈ നീട്ടി വാങ്ങാന്‍ തുനിഞ്ഞവരെ നിരുത്സാഹപ്പെടുത്തുന്നുണ്ടായിരുന്നു. രുചിയുള്ള ഭക്ഷണം കഴിച്ചിട്ട് കുറച്ചു നാളായി. ഹിമാചൽ പ്രദേശ്‌ എല്ലാവരുടെയും വയറിനു പണി തന്നിരുന്നു. തവിട്ടു നിറമുള്ള  ചെറുപയർ കറി നീണ്ട കോരികയില്‍ നിന്നും പകര്‍ന്നു . വെള്ളം. മതി വരുവോളം ഭക്ഷണം തരും.നല്ല രുചി.
ഒരു ഓറഞ്ചും കിട്ടി. ഇനി പാത്രം കഴുകണം.  അതിനു വേറെ ചുമതലക്കാര്‍ . നമ്മുടെ കയ്യില്‍ നിന്നും എചില്പാത്രം വാങ്ങി ഇനം തിരിച്ചു ശട് ശടെന്നു വലിയ കൊട്ടകളിലേക്ക് എറിയുകയാണ്. നിരന്തരം സ്റ്റീല്‍ പാത്രങ്ങള്‍ വന്നു വീഴുന്നതിന്റെ താളം ..പാത്രങ്ങള്‍ കഴുകി വേഗം  ചക്രവണ്ട്യില്‍ എത്തും . പത്രങ്ങള്‍ റെഡി ആയി ഇരിക്കുന്നത് കണ്ടാല്‍ അറിയാം ഇന്നത്തെ തിരാക്കിന്റെ ഏകദേശ ചിത്രം. ഇനിയും ഇത് പോലെ വന്നു കൊണ്ടിരിക്കും പാത്രങ്ങള്‍ .ആയിരക്കണക്കിനു ആളുകള്‍ ആണ് ഭോജന ശാലയില്‍ ഇപ്പോഴും എപ്പോഴും വരുന്നത്. അതിനു ഇടവേളകള്‍ ഇല്ല. എത്തുന്ന എല്ലാവര്ക്കും ഭക്ഷണം. പത്തോ ഇരുപതിനായിരമോ ആളുകളെ ദിവസവും പോറ്റുക. അവിശ്രമം ജോലിയില്‍ വ്യാപൃതര്‍ . വരുന്നവരില്‍ ചിലര്‍ കറിക്കരിയാനും  ഉള്ളി ഒരുക്കാനും മറ്റുമായി ഒരിടത്ത് . നമുക്കും വേണമെങ്കിൽ  അതിൽ എവിടെ യെങ്കിലും സേവനം ചെയ്യാം. തൊട്ടപ്പുറത്ത്  ചായ കൊടുക്കുന്ന സ്ഥലം വലിയ കോപ്പയിൽ മതിവരുവോളം ചൂടുള്ള ചായ..   ക്ഷീണിതരായ ഞങ്ങൾക്ക് ഈ രാത്രിയിൽ  അതുമാത്രം മതി , മനസ്സിന്  എ ത്രെയ്കുന്ദ്  സമാധാനം.  ഭക്ഷണം  കഴിഞ്ഞപ്പോൾ എല്ലാവരും പ്രത്യേകിച്ച് കുട്ടികൾ ആക്ടീവ് ആയി. ഇനി മെയിൻ ക്ഷേത്ര സന്ദർസനം .ചുറ്റും ഭക്തി സാന്ദ്രമായ അന്തരീക്ഷമാണ്. ഗ്രന്ഥ സാഹിബിലെ പഞ്ചാബി ഈരടികള്‍ ആലാപനം ചെയ്തുകൊണ്ടിരിക്കുന്നു. നാലുഭാഗത്തും വെള്ളം നിറഞ്ഞു നില്‍ക്കുന്നതിന്റെ മധ്യത്തിലായി പ്രധാന ക്ഷേത്രവും ചുറ്റുമുള്ള ക്ഷേത്രഭാഗത്ത് ഒരോ മുറികളിലും ഗ്രന്ഥ സാഹിബും ജനം സഖിയും വായിച്ചുകൊണ്ടിരിക്കുന്ന പൂജാരികളെയും കാണാം. നിവേദ്യം നല്‍കുന്ന കേന്ദ്രങ്ങളും ഇവിടെയുണ്ട്. അച്ഛൻ അതിനിടയ്ക്ക് രാഷ്ട്രീയം പറയാൻ തുടങ്ങി.കുട്ടികളായി ഞങ്ങൾ അതിനു ചെവികൊടുത്തു .
1984 ജൂൺ 5-ഉം 6-ഉം തീയതികളിലാണ് ഓപ്പറേഷൻ ബ്ലൂസ്റ്റാർ എന്നറിയപ്പെടുന്ന സൈനിക നടപടി നടന്നത്.  സുവർണ ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ മാരക ആയുധങ്ങളുമായി തമ്പടിച്ചിരുന്ന സിഖ് വിഘടന വാദികളെ തുരത്തുന്നതിനായി അന്നത്തെ പ്രധാന മന്ത്രി ആയിരുന്ന ഇന്ദിരാ ഗാന്ധിയുടെ നിർദ്ദേശപ്രകാരമായിരുന്നു ഈ നടപടി.   സൈനിക നടപടിയിലും സുവർണ്ണക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ താവളമടിച്ച പ്രക്ഷോഭകാരികളുടെ പ്രത്യാക്രമണത്തിലും പെട്ട് ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ തീർത്ഥാടകരായി എത്തിയ സ്ത്രീകളും കുട്ടികളും ഉൾപ്പെടെയുള്ള നൂറുകണക്കിനാളുകൾ മരിച്ചു.
സുവര്‍ണ ക്ഷേത്രത്തില്‍ തമ്പടിച്ച് കൊള്ളയും കൊലയും നടത്തി വന്നിരുന്ന സിക്ക് ഭീകരന്‍മാരെ അന്ന് ഇന്ദിരാ ഗാന്ധി പട്ടാളത്തെ അയച്ച് തകര്‍ക്കാന്‍ ധൈര്യം കാണിച്ചില്ലായിരുന്നുവെങ്കില്‍ ഇന്ത്യവെട്ടിമുറിക്കപ്പെടുമായിരുന്നുവെന്നത് ചരിത്രവസ്തുതയാണ് എന്ന് അച്ഛൻ പറഞ്ഞുതന്നു.ഭീകരന്‍മാര്‍  ഖലിസ്ഥാന്‍ വാദം അംഗീകരിക്കാത്ത പഞ്ചാബിലെ പ്രമുഖ നേതാക്കളെ തിരഞ്ഞു പിടിച്ച് ഒന്നൊന്നായി കൊന്നൊടുക്കി സുവര്‍ണ ക്ഷേത്രത്തിലേക്ക് രക്ഷപ്പെടുകയായിരുന്നു പതിവ്. ആ അരും കൊലകള്‍ ഒരു പ്രധാനമന്ത്രിക്കും കണ്ടില്ലെന്ന് നടിക്കാന്‍ കഴിയില്ല. ആ സാഹചര്യത്തിലായിരുന്നു ഇന്ദിരാ ഗാന്ധി ഭീകരന്‍മാര്‍ ഒളിച്ചിരിക്കുന്ന സുവര്‍ണ ക്ഷേത്രത്തിലേക്ക് പട്ടാളത്തെ അയച്ച് 'ഖലിസ്ഥാന്‍' വാദം എന്നെന്നേക്കുമായി തകര്‍ത്തത്.പിന്നീട് ഇതുവരെ സിക്ക് ഭീകരന്‍മാര്‍ ഖലിസ്ഥാനു വേണ്ടി തോക്കെടുക്കാന്‍ ധൈര്യം കാണിച്ചിട്ടില്ല.


സൈനികമായി ഈ നടപടി ഒരു വിജയമായിരുന്നെങ്കിലും കേന്ദ്രസർക്കാർ ഇതിൻറെ പേരിൽ വളരെയധികം വിമർശിക്കപ്പെട്ടു. ഈ നടപടി സിഖ് സമൂഹത്തിൽ ഇന്ദിരാ ഗാന്ധിയോടുള്ള വിരോധത്തിനു കാരണമാവുകയും, പിനീട്  സ്വന്തം സിഖ് കാവൽക്കാരുടെ വെടിയേറ്റുള്ള അവരുടെ കൊലപാതകത്തിൽ കലാശിക്കുകയും ചെയ്തു.


സുവര്ണ  ക്ഷേത്രം എന്ന  ഈ  ഗുരുദ്വാര മഹാവിനയത്ത്തിന്റെ ദേവാലയം. ലാളിത്യത്തിന്റെ കേന്ദ്രം. ആരും ആരെയും നിയന്ത്രിക്കുന്നില്ല. ആളുകള്‍ കൂടുന്ന സ്ഥലത്ത് രൂപപ്പെടേണ്ട  സ്വയം അച്ചടക്കം .ഒരേ മതക്കാരല്ല ഇവിടെ.വിവിധ നാട്ടുകാര്‍ വിവിധ വിശ്വാസക്കാര്‍ .എല്ലാവരും സിഖ് വിശ്വാസികളോട് ബഹുമാനം കാട്ടി .അവരുടെ ആചാരങ്ങളെ നോവിച്ചില്ല എന്ന് മാത്രമല്ല അത് അനുസരിക്കാന്‍ പാലിക്കാന്‍ ശ്രദ്ധിക്കുകയും ചെയ്തു. വരിയിൽ  നിന്ന ഞങ്ങൾ പെട്ടെന്ന് അകത്തെത്തി.വിശുദ്ധ ഗ്രന്ഥം മധ്യത്തു. ചിത്രപ്[പണികള്‍ ചെയ്ത വിശിഷ്ട തരം മഞ്ഞപ്പട്ടില്‍  പാവനതയോടെ വെച്ചിരിക്കുന്നു. സിഖ് പുരോഹിതര്‍ അത് പാരായണം ചെയ്യുകയും മറ്റുള്ളവര്‍ അത് ഏറ്റു ചൊല്ലുകയും ചെയ്യുന്നു.പല നിറത്തിലുള്ള തലപ്പാവുകള്‍ .   ഉള്ളില്‍ ഫോട്ടോ എടുക്കാന്‍ അനുവാദം ഇല്ല.  എങ്കിലും  നമ്മുടെ കുടുംബമല്ലേ. മൊബൈൽ ചിലര് എടുത്ത് ആരും അറിയാതെ ഫോട്ടോ എടുത്തു . പിന്നീട് മുകലിഅതെ നിലയിലേക്ക് പോയി. സ്വര്ണം കൊണ്ടുള്ള താഴികക്കുടം കണ്ടു . താഴെ വന്നു എല്ലാവരും  ഒരു ഭാഗത്ത്‌  അരമണിക്കൂർ നേരം ഇരുന്നു.പരിമളം നിറഞ്ഞ അന്തരീക്ഷം. ആത്മീയതയുടെ ശാന്തത എന്ന് പറയാമോ  ? . പിന്നീട് നാളത്തെ യാത്രയെക്കുറിച്ച് ചിന്തിച്ചപ്പോൾ മെല്ലെ എഴുനേറ്റു നടന്നു. റൂമിൽ  എത്തുമ്പോഴും വഴിയിലെ തിരക്കിനു മാറ്റം ഒനും ഇല്ല.  മൂന്നു റൂമുകളും അടുത്തടുത്തായി കിട്ടിയിരുന്നു.  റൂമുകള വളരെ ചെറുതാണ്. എങ്കിലും   വാടക കുറവൊന്നുമില്ല. ജനലുകൾ ഇല്ലാത്ത റൂമിൽ  അത്ര ചൂട് ഒന്നും ഇല്ലാഞ്ഞിട്ടുകൂടി ഏസി  ഇട്ടു കിടന്നു. ഇൻറർനെറ്റിൽ കൂടെ ബുക്ക്‌ ചെയ്തപ്പോ പാർക്കിംഗ് ഉണ്ട് എന്ന് പറഞ്ഞു പറ്റിച്ച  ഹോട്ടൽ മുതലാളിക്ക് ഒരു പണിയാകട്ടെ . ചോദിച്ചപ്പോൾ വേണമെങ്കില പെയിഡ്  പാർക്കിംഗ് ഫീസ് തരാമെന്ന് ആണ് മുതലാളി യും അവരുടെ മകളും   ചേർന്ന് പറഞ്ഞിരുന്നത്. ഫ്രീ  ബ്രേക്ക്‌ ഫാസ്റ്റ് കൂടെ  ഉണ്ട്   പക്ഷെ അത് 9 മണിക്കേ റെഡി ആകൂ. ഞങ്ങൾ കാലത്ത് 5 മണിക്ക് പുറപ്പെടും എന്ന് അറിയിച്ചു.ആ സമയത്ത് ഗതാഗത നിയത്രണം ഇല്ലാത്തത്  കൊണ്ട് കാർ  ഹോട്ടൽ പരിസരത്ത് കൊണ്ടുവരാം. അല്ലെങ്കിൽ ലഗേജും വലിച്ചു  നടക്കെണ്ടിവന്നേനെ. നാളത്തെ  യാത്ര രാജസ്ഥാൻ മരുഭൂമിയിൽ കൂടെ ആണ്. 14 മണിക്കൂർ  നിർത്താതെ  കര ഓടിക്കേണ്ടി വരും എന്നോർത്ത് മെല്ലെ മയക്കത്തിലേക്ക് വഴുതിവീണു.

Calicut / Bangalore to hot spots of Mananthavady, Kerala– Travel Guide

Calicut/ Bangalore to Mananthavady, Kerala– Travel Guide

Destination Point: Mananthavady

Mananthavady

            One of the most popular tourist places in South India is situated in Wayanad District, Kerala on the banks of Kabani River. Mananthavady, Maha Aanandavaadi. The Name derived from a Jain temple, located outskirts of old Mananthavady town, on the banks of river Kabani, with a name of Maha Anantha Swamy Temple ( PANDIKKADAVU).  Maha Ananda. Some people believe, The term also stands for Man Eytha vadi,  which has some connections with Ramayana. Mananthavady is one of the oldest towns of Wayanad. As you know Waynad is not a specific place. It’s a district's name  known as Wynaud in the British era. The area is its closely related Deccan plateau and can be termed as a border and extreme end of the plateau. so the culture is mixed with other states  place surrounds with the aura of peace and calm  everywhere, right from the hustle-bustle of the main road to the very calm, traditional tribal  dominated old Mananthavady to the woods/villages around/beyond Valliyoor Kavu temple to the walking path around Pazhassi Tomb.

 The place is ideal for families as well as a young couple looking for some hide and seek with the flavor of romance on top of it. Mananthavady is largely visited by the honeymoon couples and in summers people from all walks of life (children to old) run to seek pleasant weather from low hot burning lands of South India. All languages are easily accepted, all caste and religious people are living here with utmost harmony. For example at Mananthavady town and is the center of worship of the people living at Mananthavady, whether it's for Muslim, or Christians, or, Hindus, or, tribal community…. are situated within a short distance. . The almighty also governs the tall mountains along with raw nature and it’s only after her permission that one gets to enjoy this beautiful place to the core. When people think of Mananthavady the second keyword that comes is, of course, Wayanad Ghats which no doubt is a must visit place if you go to Mananthavady.

Some views of Mananthavady…

Climate

Climate in Mananthavady is almost nice throughout the year where you can enjoy cold in winters (December-February) and nice pleasant cool weather in summers. The best time although to visit Mananthavady is all around the year, but I like to spend time there in May to June when the heat is burning the low lands of South India. July-August will experience rainfall but this place has again its unique beauty when it rains. I like Oct and November, with emerald green everywhere after plants rejuvenated their leaves.   Light chilling drizzle may also occur in the months of January and February.

Best Time to Visit

All around the year:

April to June is the best time to visit Mananthavady but do keep in mind that in summers (April-June)The season is dry  and a little grey in colour toot  But if you enjoy it, then it’s a really awesome time to visit Mananthavady. Also, you can take the shelter in  forest glades in such extreme cases which is far off from the hustle bustle of the city crowd. All wildlife is very active around the roads itself and spotting animals is a common affair.  Right from accommodation to food to shopping to taxi/auto fares, everything is moderately cheap in this summer holidays.

For honeymoon, of course, if you get married in winters then Mid-November to February end is the best time. If you are looking for adventure sports then, hit for trekking December to February season is the best time and for rafting in Kuruwa is on from September onwards. Would do well. All of you who seek trekking in mountains, like Bahmagiri or Pakshipathalam, or Banasura hills or Chembra peak near  Mananthavady, it’s always dependent on the weather on the current day of the year.

Do avoid Valliyoorkkavu Pooja holidays mainly in March last week when the rush is at peak by local communities. If you want to meet Tribal community of Wayanad, then this will be a good option. Again groups students flood the to see Wayanad, and Mananthavady towns in February and March.  But it is nice to watch them and they make no disturbance to other visitors. Jan  to March is   Festival as well as cropping season  of pepper and Coffee in Wayanad when people are engaged with heavy works.

Some More Views Mananthavady…

How to reach Mananthavady

By Air

Nearest Airport is Kannur or Mysore, (Yes Kannur, not Calicut) near Mananthavady and lies about 100 KM away. But Bangalore is the right place to  touch down and you  can have triple advantage of Bangalore, Mysore Mananthavady in the same trip.  From Bangalore, you can hire a taxi to reach Mananthavady in 5 hrs approximately. The fare of a taxi could be Rs 3300- Rs 4000, depending upon the bargaining skills as well as season time. But I would like to take a Self-drive car from Bangalore and drive as per my wish. For Keralites, the Wayanad Ghat road is a must see and that is the most suitable entry point to them. If you are from north India, Calicut or Kannur airport is a good choice to take as the drive on Villages of Kerala and hill road itself a pleasure.

By Train

Thalassery  is the closest major Railway Station from where it would take anywhere around 2-3 Hours to reach Mananthavady by bus/car. But Kozhikode is more appropriate for a road trip with a running time of 3-4 hours

By Road

Mananthavady is about 110 KM from Calicut (approximately) and takes around 3-4 Hours to reach.

Generally the route followed for Mananthavady from Calicut by road is –Calicut – Thamarassery) – Adivaram – Kalpetta(82 KM) Panamaram– Koilery-Mananthavady (110 KM)

KSRTC  low floor Volvo Buses also run from Calicut every day from KSRTC  Bus stand and reaches Mananthavady in about 3 hrs.  The fare is around Rs 110 on the side. The similar type along with numerous local buses leaves from Mananthavady and reaching Calicut, and beyond.

from Bangalore

Bangaluru

1.Mysore-HD kote- Bavali-Mananthavady (6 am to 6 pm only)

2. Mysore Hunsur-Nagerhole-Kutta-Manathavady(6 am to 6 pm only)

3.. Mysore -Hunsur-Gonikoppal- Kutta-Manathavady (24 hrs open)

4. Mysore gundalpeta-Bathery-Mananthavady-(9 am to 9 pm only)

From Kannur

1. Koothuparamba-Nedumpoil-Periaya-Mananthavdy-Great road

2. Koothuparamba-Nedumpoil-Kottiuoor -boys town-Mananthavady-Gud road

Road Conditions

Calicut to Mananthavady roads run on NH-212 and State highways and are pretty much in great shape being a highway. In the entire route, there are one or two rough patches so that you never lose your concentration, especially the drive from Adivaram to Lakkidi is horrible with trucks running madly all over the road on both sides, slowing you down terribly. A slight bypass to Kalpetta stretch is also in bad shape but rest of the road conditions are pure bliss to drive.

Preferred Vehicles

Best the way is to take your car/bike and hit the road as there is no such specialty required in the vehicle is it 2X2 or 4X4. You can take it as long as its engine runs and fuel exists 

Bus Service from Calicut – Mananthavady

Buses ply from Calicut from midnight to midnight 30-40 minutes frequency.

As per KSRTC  FB Page, KSRTC  operates 6 daily low floor Volvo buses from Mananthavady to Calicut.  

Timings from Mananthavady: Mananthavady is one of the places with a lot of buses plying all around the clock. Come in Mananthavady at any time. You will get food and accommodation even at midnight.

 Itinerary

From  Bangalore

The best place to start your itinerary in Wayanad is surely not in Wayanad, But in Karnataka!  I would suggest any one of the places like Kabani(BAVALI), Nagarhole,and Wild Life Santuary,Iruppu falls  are located in the gateways to Wayanad,. Interestingly, there are a good number of holiday resorts in these areas, most of them located close to one or the other tourist spot. The adventure traveler can choose to stay in jungle resorts or tree houses. The other option is the “homestay”, very popular in these parts. Many of the residents here let out a portion of their house to tourists. Whichever the choice, advance booking is recommended.

From Calicut

If you are from Calicut to visit Mananthavady you require at least 3 Nights, 4 Days and it would be great if you have more  but ideally in 3 Nights / 4 Days you can cover the majority of this place. I would also provide some add-on or pop-up day tours which you can include exclude as you like.

Day – 0: Leave Calicut in the early morning to avoid traffic about 5 AM  to reach Mananthavady morning by 10 am either by car/or bus. You can have a morning look at  Wayanad Ghats on the way which has a special glory in morning hue.  If you are using car, Pookot lake on NH 212 is a never miss, and it will take only 2 hrs, but it will worth. Jain temple at Panamaram, built in the 13th century, is on the way.

Day – 1:

 Check-in at the hotel, at Mananthavady, rest for a few minutes after lunch and go on for Local Sightseeing. This may include Main road (which of course you can’t avoid any day), Pazhassi Tomb and Valliyoorkkavu  Temple in the evening through the streets of old Mananthavady. Have Dinner at one of the traditional/western cuisine restaurants at Mananthavady. Near to the River Bank of Kabani, Pazhassi Raja Park is a  popular tourist spot to visit with children. It has lots of Bats hanging on trees. 

 Come back to the hotel for the rest.  If you want to Skip stay at Mananthavady and stay at Thirunelly is also possible, as night traveling through the forest is not banned yet. Thirunelly also boasts economical stay at  Panchatheertham  Inn and lot of  3-4 star holiday homes and hotels available.

Day – 2: 

Leave for Thirunelli    early in the morning see wildlife on the way to Thirunelly. Mind it, its glory of the trip so be prepared and it’s always better to go on slow speed to enjoy the beauty of the forest. Before early morning maybe 8 A.M. Pooja and ritual can be performing in the morning is a delight. Expect most of the persons of came only to do the rituals after they lost some family members. It is believed the Ash will reach ultimately at the Bay of Bengal, Not at The Arabian Sea, and so it has a special place among Keralites. Enjoy a trek towards Papanasini, under thick shades of forest trees. Pakshipathalam is nearby, about 14 km trek, and you will need special permission from the forest office

Beware: Male devotees can enter the temple only if they are bare-chested. Non-Hindus are not expected inside the sanctum  of the temple, but anybody can roam near temple premises and go to  Papanasini  Track, please respect the local rituals.

If you are more interested in Kuruwa Island,  try  it in the morning, because of it entry closes at 3:30 PM at  then proceed to  Tholpetty Wildlife sanctuary and evening can be spent at Thirunelly temple. All three in almost in one route. Come back in the evening. If you do not own a car, book a cab from Mananthavady for one day.

Day – 3: Check out hotel and leave for Tholpetty Wildlife Safari or Banasura Sagar Dam or Edakkal cave.  if you want to do some adventure sports and enjoy the day there. Leave for home in the night, either by taking the evening bus or by your own car.

Add-on or Top-up Days

My article is mainly on Mananthavady, and you can add on …some points.

Day – 4:

 If you are not interested in visiting a unique place then include Edakkal in your trip with a night stay at Bathery  Temple. Well, the views it offers are just breathtaking. So you can also opt for Thirunelly in place of Tholpetty Wildlife Safari if you don’t like adventure sports then replace this day with the trip to Edakkal and Jain temple  Temple at Bathery , just 40 odd KM from Mananthavady.  Lakkidi is also a good option for honeymooners n it’s one of the best places to stay and must visit for couples looking for an ideal romantic point.

To get the glimpses of the views from Thirunelly Temple, check these links of my visit to this beautiful place.

You may take a day trip to Thirunelly and leave for Mananthavady same day if you don’t like much but better include a night stay at this lovely place. Next morning you can leave to Calicut from Thirunelly itself.

Beware: Male devotees can enter the temple only if they are bare-chested. Non Hindus are not expected inside the sanctum  of temple, but anybody can roam near temple premises and have  Papanasini  Track, please respect local culture

Day – 5 :

 Another set of the location you may include is that you leave for Wayanad is  Bathery  if it’s the penultimate day of the trip or early morning on any day if you have an ample amount of time. Just it would be great if you can do it on the way back to home towards Calicut or similar route.

If you have time then dedicate a day for Muthanga  and try to enjoy the environment to the core besides the Nool Puzha River.

Leave for Calicut in the evening and reach by morning.

Accommodations

There are a lot of Hotel options available in Mananthavady for accommodation ranging from luxury Hotels to budget range Hotels. Well, I have been to all three kinds on my previous trips to Mananthavady and this is what I felt a nice list to narrow down the choices. Of course, I would say these are just Hotels either known to me or I have taken feedback from my family members who have stayed there. 

           

1. Holiday Hill Hotel Kartikulam, Mysore Road, Mananthavady , a 3-star hotel, s comfortable designed and well-appointed rooms fitted with modern conveniences. In-room amenities include air-conditioner, cable television, intercom, ironing board, sofa unit, hot/cold running water, and bathroom amenities. Guests can visit Kuruwa Dweep(5.7 km), Padiri Reserve Forest(14.2 km), Thirunelly Temple(21 km), Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary(26 km) and Nagarhole National Park(32 km) which are situated near to the hotel. The hotel offers facilities such as laundry, room service, guide service, transfers, and parking space. Guests can make use of recreational facilities such as gymnasium, spa, massage, and Ayurveda center. The restaurant at the hotel dishes out scrumptious and delicious north and south Indian cuisines. I felt this hotel is economical with a range of Rs 1500 including Breakfast 
2. Rohini Villa Mananthavady, Located at a walking distance from Municipal Bustand, towards police station of  Mananthavady, Rohini villa adjoins Chundakkunnu Temple (Approx. 1km) it ensures a stay wrapped with complete peace and simple pleasures of life. The enchanting environment with mist-clad peaks of Banasura, greenery and exotic flora and fauna all around, makes discerning travelers fall for this resort at the very first sight. The warmth of the cozy rooms, the taste of the flavorful food coupled with the contemporary business facilities strikes a great balance. This home is ideal for honeymoon lovers are located a bit isolated towards Old Mananthavady, again which is a small group of bachelors also seek. It is a modern villa with a kitchen facility and a hot water tub. If you are a couple or family with kids or a group of people up to 15 members, this is for you. A very reasonable rate for us Rs 1500 was the temptation. But they offered for these facilities:- An open barbeque, campfire, and grilling chicken are added advantage. At least we felt this villas are superior  when we stayed there, we could walk through a neighboring tribal settlement and interact with local tribes. We could participated in their dances and song in nights, eat and drink with them. Awesome experience, no other words moreover food is that of good quality. The host is a highly educated lady and very helpful in organizing our trips. She called us every time since our landing. Even she arranged a free private car to pick us from Calicut airport. Value for money. You can book the homestay via  bookings.com which will save more money.
3. Hotel Bahmagiri is a four-star hotel at Mananthavady offers a wide range of options both to the tourists offers sightseeing, trekking, camping, and jungle safari. Is just on the Main road provides you with ample facilities being on the Main road. Rooms are really comfortable and worth the money. Even if you don’t stay do have a meal or two in its restaurant. The range is Rs 2200- Rs4000. It has an in house bar and it causes disturbances, in the late night by local drunkards, at least during our stay. It is a safe to bet if you are in a dilemma for a cheap hotel, I believe.
4. Century Grand Hotel Situated in Mananthavady,, features air-conditioned rooms and free private parking. Guests can enjoy the on-site restaurant. Every room includes a flat-screen TV and equipped with a private bathroom fitted with a shower. Built is modern and luxurious. This is and not at all a budget hotel. We stayed here in the very offseason and still we got a room for 1500 I believe. But I must say the money was worth it as the Hotel has all sorts of deserving offerings one would like. 
5. Hotel Haksons. Is one of the best budget hotels with a standard of quality and service. It is located amidst the of Mananthavady town. Everything is so nearby and I would really recommend it for families with children. Kids tend to demand this and that every now and then which makes a good choice as everything you get in Mananthavady is so nearby. But avoid if you have more budget. The range is 650-2000 and you can always stay here if you are short on budget. 

Budget Hotels in Mananthavady

Budget Hotels If you are short on a budget either choose you can very well walk to the streets of Mananthavady where you will get very good deals for some cheap hotels in Mananthavady.

You can find lots of budget hotels around Mananthavady in town, Bus stand area, Mananthavady and hotels on the Mananthavady – Thirunelly road. The one at Mananthavady – Thirunelly road named The White fort, but I have no personal experience .and one just before that hotel are really good and economic options of stay in Mananthavady, like green Residence and Hotel Ciba etc.

Food Joints

• Indian Coffee house located near the town is very famous for its cuisines. A meal here is a must for us whenever we go to Mananthavady.
• Century, located at  far from the Main road, has a great variety of Chinese dishes topped with great taste.
• Wynn Berry, located just at the start of Main road shops is also quite good in food quality. In fact one of the trips we just had our meal in this restaurant only.
• Local hotels:


I would always love the yummy taste of Kerala poratta with Chicken, Mutton or Beef. A variety of taste can be offered. Kerala poratta is different from North Indian counterparts like Nan, Roti or chapattis. It has its own glorious taste. And it will provide a maximum taste of your curry chosen. Every curry will go with it. So try your best and favorite curry with Kerala poratta. One must try in a lifetime. My ultimate choice is Poratta with Beef Fry. Beef curry of Beef fry is always available in all hotels in Mananthavady. No need to worry, it's safe and delicious, and very tasty is the best place for Kerala Porattas in Mananthavady. If you love Nonveg then do not forget to check this awesome place. 
Believe me, you can get Arabic foods like Chicken Shawarma and Grilled chicken (the original one) in Mananthavady town near KT complex. Its a good food joint although I have never been there due to long queues.

Tips to travel in Forests

• I have said there are forest roads in and around Mananthavady. Some roads are banned for night traffic.  If you traveling by car - Avoid those roads and plan accordingly.
• Spotting of wildlife including  tigers, and leopards  elephants, Indian Guar(Kaattu pothu) Deer are possible in the state highways  from Bavali to Mananthavady ,Tholpetty(Kutta) to Mananthavady  and Thirunelly to Mananthavady Roads.
• Do not stop or get out of the car for photography. It is an offense and forest department can charge on you.
• I like to travel  from Mysore to Mananthavady through Bavali route. Most picturesque, high rate of spotting wild animals, shortest route and excellent road. Because it traverses through the core area of Nagarhole WLS, parallel to River Kabani, so wild animals tend to stay near waterholes. Unfortunately , this road will close from 6 pm to 6 am at Bavali and from other ends.Still, it’s a good bet, No need of a wildlife safari! My trick is to drive up to Anderasande or Bavali reach around 5.30 pm and spend for a tea break there. Just before closing the gate I pass through the gate. And drive very slowly to spot a large number of animals, especially tigers and leopards which start preying by this time.
• Interestingly Mananthavady- Kutta-Gonikoppal- Hunsur road is opened for 24 hrs, even it crosses  Wayanad WLS in Tholpetty. But Mananthavady- Kutta-Nagerhole-Husur road will be closed from 6 pm to 6 am 
• Rolls your glasses up in your car. If you see  Wild animals on the road, please do not get out of the car or make any sounds. Keep a distance of at least 50 meters. Simply watch them within one or two minutes they will walk away calmly.
• All animals are afraid of you. They will not attack unless provoked and by you are standing in close range with them. Some elephants will stay at the side of the road, maybe without any other options. Closely watch them especially if it is a tusker or a female elephant with calf. Do not approach.  These are the only instances they will charge.
• Even waiting up to 5 minutes, if the elephant not moved from the first position, you may pass him without fear.  Do not honk  horn or  throw something  towards elephant, to provoke and make chasing your car. It will be harmful to an innocent  car behind you.
• In cases of a possible charge. Be calm,  do not switch off the car.  Do not reverse. Put it in first gear.  Honk the horn and put headlights and shout at most at the same time. Revv the engine with little quirk movements. Normally all elephants will run away.   If it is a rogue elephant or in his must, the story will be different. Don’t worry about the history of attacks by this route is nearly zero. 
• Still he is charging, the best way is to distract  him by throwing something smelly  or cloths(eg.SHIRT) to him. when  he will focus to tear it you can turn back

• Do not exert yourself too much in bike riding through forests. But still, I love to ride.

Around Mananthavady:

There are ample of places around Mananthavady and inside Mananthavady town which as a tourist can be visited and clicked for some great memories in life. I will try to enlist some of them below –

Local Sightseeing

You can check below destinations within Mananthavady town –

Mananthavady Main road

You can enjoy food and shop at this very road. There are many  Hotels as well on the road. There is one Temple, named Kanchi Kamakshi Amman Temple, and a number of Mosques  as well as the Main road just aside Bus and Taxi Stand

Pazhassi Tomb

It’s near Hospital Hill  approximately 15-20 minutes' walk. Autos run all-time in Mananthavady to take you to the local tourist joints, in a very minimal charge. But I feel walking down to these places has the fun of its own kind.

Valliyoor Kavu temple

As you cross through the streets of lovely Old Mananthavady you will reach this temple, an auto ride is a good option

Latin Church

Situated at the heart of Mananthavady town. Actually, the whole town is built around the road of a hill  in which Latin Church situates.

Bishop's House

Bishop's House is situated just few 500 odd Meters from the bus stand at Main road. You can surely buy some souvenir from the shops in front of the local Mananthavady monastery.

Rose Garden

Personally I didn’t like this place at all and considered it a total waste of time.

Other trails

Other trails in the woods through local villages and old Mananthavady which can be enjoyed as well.

Banasura Sagar Dam

The Banasura Dam, India's largest earth dam (and second largest in the world) is in Wayanad is a must visit for every tourist who goes to Mananthavady. You can Travel  directly to Calicut by another awesome gut road. It is a main point of Calicut-Mananthavady- connectivity trough Kuttiady Perambra.Kuttiady  ghat road is also super in quality and saves distance and time to traveling towards, Thalassery, Vadakara, and Calicut..

Tholpetty Wildlife Safari Wayanad

Tholpetty wildlife sanctuaries in this region. Elephants, leopards, deer and snakes can be spotted here. For trekking adventure traveler’s delight with treks through hills and forests.

Thirunelly Temple

This is just an amazing place which I have already explained in the Itinerary section and if you are really looking for some Pilgrimage joint, Thirunelly Temple is surely the place to be.

Wayanad

As I said, It’s a major district of Kerala and is located at the banks of Kabani River. The list of places to see is exhaustive.  You can read it here and add it as your wish. The district abounds with waterfalls, named and unnamed, and there is a viewpoint at literally every turn on the road. I will come with more details soon. By the time you may ask any questions about the itinerary and I will be glad to assist you

Conclusion

If you ever have been to Mananthavady then please share your valuable thoughts and suggestion as well so that it can help other fellow travelers to plan their journey to Mananthavady accordingly. I will be looking forward to your comments and suggestions.PAck your backpacks, have a camera and take it. Just place it and shoot at any place blankly in Mananthavady in Wayanad. You will get a scenery, I bet it. 

BY JeyKey, Mananthavady Locals

more on Waynad

Mananthavady-New finding of old drawing.

Manintoddy

If you have ever wondered about the history of your local town, village or street? through investigating the past, you may reveal yourself. We always thought and ignored our Wayanad is a little piece of land which has no important role in history. And we never thought our town has its name in any history books. My studies in local history have given me a deeper understanding of history in general and also instilled in me a different way of thinking about people who lived in past times. Placing yourself in other people’s shoes and thinking deeply about their lives can provide you with a different aspect in considering people in today’s world. I have also enjoyed other people's views who are interested in our local history

Actually, Wayanad has, from the earliest days of European settlement, or before, been distinguished by its multicultural nature. There is evidence of prehistoric settlements in Wayanad. Inscriptions in Edakkal cave and some other parts in Thovary mala confirms this. I believe lots of evidence and inscriptions could have been lost during migrated plantation cultivation which occurred in 1940 to 1970s. it was not a land of aboriginals now Malayalee settlements of the area commenced before the British invaded us. .Migration has been paramount in the history of Mananthavady. Each wave of migration has added to its character. The peak of migration occurred from the 1950s to the late 1970s when very large numbers of migrants arrived from southern Kerala, Kannur, Calicut Districts, The area has continued to become a new home to a diverse array of cultural groups and you can observe every kind of these groups in Wayanad, not like other parts of Kerala.

The mananthavady-new finding of an old drawing.

1839 watercolor drawing taken from the personal collection of Mr. Narayan Swami, Titled "View from the Officers' Canteen, Manantoddy, 12th Jan 1839" as inscribed on the verso f the painting. Size 12 x 9 Inches. As you can see, the drawing has been cut in the left-hand corner and some added brushwork of poor quality (the eaves of the roof and the wood columns supporting them) can be seen, added obviously at a later date. It is clear from this unnecessary brushwork (probably added by the Lithographer when discussing the matter with the artist) that this view was considered for the lithographic issue but the idea abandoned, perhaps because it was decided that views of the Nilgiris only were to be published.

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രണ്ടു നൂറ്റാണ്ട് മുൻപ്, ഫോട്ടോയോ മറ്റു ഉപകരണങ്ങളോ കണ്ടുപിടിക്കുന്നതിനും മുന്പ് മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽ ഏരിയ എങ്ങിനെ ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നു എന്ന് അറിയുന്നത് കൗതുകകരം ആയിരിക്കും. അന്ന് പെൻസിൽ,വാട്ടർ കളർ ചിത്രങ്ങളിലൂടെ ആയിരുന്നു നമ്മുടെ നാടിനെ മറുനാട്ടുകാർ നോക്കിക്കണ്ടിരുന്നത്. അത്തരത്തിൽ വളരെ പ്രാധാന്യം ഏറിയ ഒരു ചിത്രലേഖനം ആണിത്. മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽസിന്റെ നിരീക്ഷണത്തിൽ ബ്രിട്ടീഷ്‌ സേനാൻഗം ആയ Edward Archdall McCurdy (1797 - 1842) മാനന്തവാടിയിലെ ഏതോ കെട്ടിടത്തിൽ നിന്നും 1839 ൽ വരച്ച ഈ ചിത്രം ഇതുവരെ കിട്ടിയിട്ടുള്ളതിൽ വച്ച് ഏറ്റവും പഴക്കം ഏറിയതാണ്.ആ കാലഘട്ടത്തിൽ വയനാടിന്റെ തലസ്ഥാനം ആയിരുന്ന മാനന്തവാടിയുടെ ഈ ചിത്രത്തിന് സമാനമായത് എന്ന് പറയാവുന്നത് തലശ്ശേരി, കോഴിക്കോട് എന്നിവിടങ്ങൾ നിന്നുള്ള രേഖാ ചിത്രങ്ങൾ മാത്രമാണ്. ഇതുവരെ ഇംഗ്ലണ്ട് ൽ പ്രസിദ്ധീകരിക്കപ്പെടാതെ പോയ ഈ ചിത്രം ചെന്നൈയിൽ ഉള്ള Mr. Narayan Swami യുടെ സ്വകാര്യ ശേഖരത്തിൽ ഉള്ളതാണ്. മാനന്തവാടിയുടെ ചരിത്രത്തിൽ ഈ ചിത്രത്തിന് ഒരു സ്ഥാനം ഉണ്ടാവാൻ പോകുന്നു. മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽസ് സംശയിക്കുന്ന സ്ഥലങ്ങൾ : ആശുപത്രി കുന്ന് , താലൂക്ക് ഓഫീസ്, LFUP hill , ലാറ്റിൻ church എന്നിവയാണ്.

The location of this image, as it holds an important role in History of our Mananthavady. This is 1839 water colour drawing taken from personal collection of Mr. Narayan Swami,Titled "View from the Officers' Canteen, 12th Jan 1839" as inscribed on the verso f the painting. Mananthavady is a modern name of the town and taluk which spelt differently at different times: Manintoddy,Manantoddy, Manantodi, Manthaady, Maha Anandavady, etc. Mananthavady has been referred to as "Hosenkadi" in a dictum scribbled under a copper artifact found at the Ananthanathaswamy Temple at Varadoor. Presence of Jain Community and Ananthaswamy temple at Pandikkadavu make this nomenclature as a site of Maha Anantha Vadi. But the dominant view on the etymology is that the word is derived from "Mane Eytha Vady (The place where an arrow was shot at the deer)".

Manantoddy was HQ of Wynuad Rangers,

Wynaud (now WAYANAD) in Kerala is the hill range contiguous to the Nilgiris and Manantoddy(now MANANTHAVADY) was the base of the Wynuad Rangers, a detachment of the Madras Army stationed there to watch the borders with Mysore state in the time of Hyder Ali and Tippoo. Later, the Rangers continued to be stationed there to contain Moplah insurrection.

Manantoddy (MANANTHAVADY) was the base of the famous Wynaud Rangers, led by Maj Henry Bevan. The detachment was initially established to police the borders with Tipoo and later to maintain law and order in the context of Moplah uprisings from time to time.

Manantoddy watercolour, a sectional view showing the depth and perspective achieved (note the human figures in the hollow below the house). These guys had good training in surveying in those days!

The Manantoddy watercolor photoshopped for V Narayan Swami by Dr John Roberts (and stripped of the latter-day overlays of roofing and supporting columns). This is more or less how the original painting should have looked (and also approximates its aspect had the lithographing been carried out).

The inscription at the back of the Manantoddy water colour.V Narayan Swami was able to establish that it is in McCurdy's handwriting 

As Mananthavady Locals could not establish the location same scenery till now from an accurate location, a possible view from the government Sub-registrar office at Mananthavady. I strongly suspect the background hill is Brahmagiri hills, assuming the shapes.

Photo of present Convent Hill. check the building in its top. It was certainly used by the British. Now it works as a monastery for Christian nuns.

The Nilgiri Wynad of E A McCurdy, Compulsive Landscape Artist

Edward Archdall McCurdy (1797 - 1842), a Captain and later Lt Colonel in the 27th Native Infantry of the Madras Army, published "Views of the Nielgherries, or Blue Mountains of Coimbetoor, Southern India" (no date but c.1830 - 40), a set of 5 lithographs of the Blue Mountains. This is a very rare set, seldom seen at auctions.

McCurdy's original watercolours of the Nilgiri &Wynad, the range of hills to the west of and adjoining the Nilgiris (mostly today's in Kerala state). The Nilgiri Wynad is but a day's march or less from Ootacamund and clearly McCurdy was there at least in 1839, if not more than once.

The first picture is a watercolour shows a view from the Officers' Canteen in Manantoddy (Manantawadi today) in the Wynad. Manantoddy and the Wynad were the base for the Wynaud Rangers headed by Major Henry Bevan (until a few years before 1839) who has written a book on his sporting adventures in the area :http://books.google.co.in/books… At the time this watercolour was drawn, 1839, McCurdy's regiment was stationed in Bangalore. And, clearly, he liked to holiday and sketch in the Nilgiris and the Wynad, places only a few days march from Bangalore.

You can see that the drawing has been cut in to two pieces (possibly with a view to have the reduced drawing lithographed but the idea was no doubt abandoned as I am not aware of any such published litho).

The inscription at the back is the next, 2nd, picture and it matches with a known sample of McCurdy's handwriting (the 4th picture).

But it is the style of the drawing which is conclusive for the attribution. The 5th picture below is a scan of one of the published Nilgiri lithographs.The similarity in styles between the watercolours and the litho will be apparent even though the print medium tends to efface most if not all of the flourish and individuality of the hand-drawn master drawing. So, conclusively, a watercolor by Mc Curdy with matching handwriting.

Please note the sunlit, sun-dappled effect on the rolling hills in both the paintings, seemingly a signature McCurdy effect. His sketching abilities, as you can see, were nothing to write home about, but his surveying skills are evident in the perspective and depth he brings to the drawings. And his control over the medium of watercolour is excellent.

Some starting lines of a chapter of the book 30 years in India by Maj Henry Bevan. The 1830s

Lieutenants D. and N. being on a visit to me at Manintoddy, were anxious to see deer shooting. I gladly consented to gratify their inclinations, and started for the Tinevelly forest, about eight miles off. We had tolerable success in the mornings and evenings, at which time the deer quit their thick and impervious coverts, to feed on a shrub that grows in these jungles: it bears a sort of gooseberry .of which they are very fond; and the localities in which these shrubs abound, are their favourite resorts. 

Thirunelli  Temple

Located 22 km from Mananthavady

I may here relate an instance of the credulity of the natives ofWynaud. A most extraordinary panic prevailed for about ten days in the neighbourhood of Manintoddy, which caused a temporary scarcity of provisions, At one of the Hindoo temples near Manintoddy.

I saw tried the power of the Wynaud bow on many occasions, and I will here give an instance of its efficiency. A poor cultivator who resided close to Manintoddy, lost one of the buffaloes he used in his plough. And this was to him a severe misfortune, for his team was the principal support of him self and his family. He knew that the tiger which had killed it would come at night to prey on the carcass, and he, therefore, lay in wait behind a small screen within a few yards of the carcass. The tiger came as he expected; he discharged his arrow at the beast, and so correct was his aim, and such the strength of his arm, that the arrow pierced to the tiger's heart. He told us that the beast when struck, bounded high in the air and fell dead on of his victim. For this feat, he received the usual allowance of 30 rupees,, which enabled him to buy two othe rbuffaIoes--a reward he nobly earned. 

More on this book will be discussed in a later blog.

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