Man and Machine trip -day 1 Calicut - Mananthavady

Man and Machine  trip -day 1 Calicut - Mananthavady

The planning 

Days and days of searching in net given a clear-cut idea of the routes. Moreover, Kenneth Anderson Facebook group and its old posts gave inspiration for the trip. I asked Mr Joshua and Karkala Jayaraman about the area and routes and they prompted me wisely. 

Going on a long road journey on a two-wheeler was never my cup of tea.

It was planned as a car trip with the family, to Mysore, Kabani, Nager hole and Hogenekal falls as added attractions for kids.  But things are turned to a 6 day trip to alone in a motorbike.

It was after more than two weeks we landed at Calicut, Wife wanted to stay with their parents at Kannur, or more than a week's period. I agreed on the same as per the mutual understanding. They were tired after the Revisiting Kerala trip which lasts for one week. Also just before we went to an amusement park and shed all the energy there in the water pools. 

The actual route, for 6 days.

So being alone, suddenly I thought about the trip and as thoughts revamping, I decided to go. Alone, yes in a bike. It will be easier to go through the dense jungles, and I wanted to go some off reading to explore KA"s place. All the plans are changed. No Family No car, No tent. I was looking for a bike; I could get a bullet or my old Yezdi Classic. Both are not good for a long trip as I knew, especially if somebody dares for a lone trip. Actually, I made a ride to Mysore to restore my Yezdi last week, and it is good in working condition. But if in case of a starting trouble occurs in the middle of nowhere I will be swapped. Looking around I find the old man.

Old Victor used for the first phase

My second bike in my life my 10-year-old friend, TVS victor was there in the garage. It's in poor condition and handicapped, no service is done for the past few years and no proper care is given to it. Anyway, I took him out, filled petrol and checked. Running. Ok, it will be enough to Wayanad on this bike than in a car. The traffic in Kerala is always boring, but on the bike, it's quite awesome and adventurous too. 

New Honda unicorn, just 450 km clocked.

As for the accessories, have a tent and sleeping bags, but it's in Kannur, Camera also there. For riding gear almost I have nothing that a helmet and a police cooling glass, even I missed my gloves. Still, as determined I thought I can have it from Mananthavady, where is my haven. I thought my Samsung S5 with its 16 mp camera is just enough to take the snaps. It will also supplement as providing GPS and Google maps. I took two power banks to charge the phone but never used in the trip. Because I put my S5 in ultra power saving mode whenever not in use. 

Now I have a backpack with all the accessories and dress, I took two sets of rain suits. I always do this in rainy rides, wearing one over one and then only in heavy rain, you can ride without fearing the tickle sensation of cold drops of rain oozing through the small holes of the zipper. 

DAY 1. Calicut - Mananthavady

I started to visit the nearby temples as per my plan I got some pictures of some buildings, places, temples and churches in and around Malabar dated back to 1900 and before. I went personally to the places and comparing the present situations. You may refer the blog posts for the details. 

Puthoor temple

Front view of Bhagavati Temple, Elatur, Calicut taluk, Malabar district Photographer: Archaeological Survey of India | Date: [1900] ; 1900-01 Source: British Library

This time, I went to Puthoor temple and confirmed the location. Luckily I got somebody to speak with in detail. The temple is still under Zamorins, but not knows widely like Guruvayoor temple or Thali temple. The actual place is called Puthiyangadi, near to Pavangad, Calicut. Later, after talking to some local people, I learnt that Elathur was a vast land, not a mere town Renovation is taking place and some of the land beside Temple has been lost. Any way the old structure with its all glory has been undisturbed and well preserved. 

Varakkal Devi temple

Next, I ride to Varakkal Devi temple, and from outside I examined it well and again confirmed its location. Here also Zamorins is in supreme power and he decides the temple committee to govern. The old photo was taken before the railway line constructed and I assume the photo taken from a point presently on the railway track. 

1901 photo of Baghavati  temple, Varakkal

More and more trees and vegetation is around if you observe closely' the little trees are still there on both sides of the steps. I don't know it is the same trees after more than 115 years. I read it's possible for banyan trees. 

Taken in an attempt to click at the same point as per the old picture. The tank as in the first photo is now partially filled with railway tracks and the half is now in this state as in the right side of the road. you can see the steps also. 

Vishnu Temple at Perumanna

My next destination is Perumanna, a small town lying at the banks of Chaliyar, about 15 km west to Calicut. Ride in the heavy traffic to Medical College, and met my old friends, still working there. Bhadran, Zubair, and Rajeevan were curious about my trip. Sanjayan sir is given a huge hug as I met them after 7 years. From outside the Hospital, I also met my beloved professor, Rajan sir. After long conservation, asked why I wear this kind of dress. Then only I looked myself. With my military green shirt and jacket with the same colour cargo trousers, I looked like a wildlife photographer rejoiced my mind. Had lunch at the old hostel, with the same tastes of curries, brought me the remembrance of the olden days. Surprisingly, they maintain the same menu still. 

Kuttikattor has changed a lot, now a hub of furniture shops all around, was a timid village like a calm town with greenery all around when I stayed there. I searched for my old friend and our old lab, but it also been demolished in a process of renewal. From Poovattuparamb I took a right turn and soon heard a loud noise from the rear of the bike, only to stop suddenly and found victor lost its temper and slipped the chain from the sprocket. Luckily I was moving slowly. No harm. But I could not make it up again, as I found no tools in the bike. Slowly I pushed him to the nearest workshop and the mechanic advised me to change the chain and sprocket immediately. Spent some time around by having a tea and within half an hour hit the road again. 

Perumanna was well known to me but the old temple was not. It had a lot of stories to tell to the new generation. I think a post separately on this. Perumanna is a beautiful location, in the outskirts of Calicut. It can be reached easily via the Mankavu or Mavoor route. 

This serene, calm, beautiful village was a terrific mix of adventure and relaxation to me. 

There is an ancient temple nearby, with a lot of history attached to it. It was invaded, looted...and has faced the wrath of time. The main deities Shiva and Vishnu stand overlooking their subjects, the people of Perumanna. 

Anyway, I got some snaps of the temple even it was closed during this hour. Some of the boys from the neighbourhood helped me to open the temple to take a snap. The main deities here are Vichy and Siva both in equal importance. But in the old picture, it is described as only Vishnu temple of Perumanna. This confusion has gone when I see the round shaped sanctum sanctorum of the Vishnu temple. I assumed the old photo has been taken from the tall compound wall of the temples. It has a peculiar shape of elephant belly I and never seen it somewhere else. 

Vishnu Temple at Perumanna in the Kozhikode district of Kerala, taken by a photographer of the Archaeological Survey of India on the 1st February 1901.Source: British Library 

This is a complex of Shiva and Vishnu Temple and is almost ruined by Tippu. The Krishna's statue does not have hand in the main sanctum. The entire complex is double in size of Guruvayoor temple and never got proper recognition that it deserves!

Mavoor 

I took an easy way to Cheroopa and then Headed towards Mavoor. Pass by Cheroopa Public Health Centre east on Mavoor Rd/Pipe Line Rd toward Mavoor Kettangal Rd

Description: Photograph of the south view of Shiva Temple at Kunniparamba, Calicut taluk, Malabar district, taken by a photographer for Archaeological Survey of India around 1900

 Shiva  and Vishnu temple at Kunniparamba, as of today

After an extensive and thorough search, I found this temple situated Near Mavoor, after Cheroopa, Thengilakadavu-kanniparamb road. The location is given below by Google and Bing maps. 

In the second volume of his work 'Malabar' of 1887, William Logan wrote about this temple, "In Kanniparamba amsam, there is a temple dedicated to Siva, Vishnu, Ganapati, Ayyapan and Dakshinamurti. It is 132 feet square. It is a very ancient temple so much so that it is fabled to have been founded by Kannwa Rishi commemorated in the Maha Bharata." 

I talked to some local people, but they seem ignorant of the historical importance of this temple. I think it is a Muslim dominated area in the surroundings. 

Google map  view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba 

South view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba, Calicut taluk, Malabar district Date of creation: 1900-01, Source British Library

view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba

Wayanad Ghats

I selected a route to Koduvally through interior Calicut district, under coconut palms everywhere, through the villages. This is to avoid heavy traffic in NH. Green is the primary colour wherever you look into, and the road leads me to NIT Calicut and then to Koduvally. From there NH 212 to Kollegal joined and the ride was non-event full 

I am a regular traveller on this route, every 2 weeks or so we were travelling through the famous Wayanad Ghats. So it was not much attractive to me, even though more and more vehicles and tourists pass daily on this picture ghat road. From Adivaram town, take a left turn, a pocket road, and it will save 4km of you. If you are interested in a change in the boring first and second hairpin bend, I advise you to take this route. The road is narrow but smooth and traffic less, it will join at a 4th hairpin bend. 

Lots of people told about the mist and cold of Wayanad ghat and I do not want to repeat about the pleasure it gives each time. 

Normally we prefer Vythiri- Tharuvana 4thmile route to Mananthavady. Which is in perfect condition for a weekend drive? A lot of beautiful spots around the road, mingled with forest, and a smooth road with less traffic and fewer kilometres. But this time Kalpetta bypass is newly opened, and I want to test the route. Byepass is not much good as expected, single lane only, and within 5 years it should be upgraded. 

Mananthavady is not far, 35 km away, and can reach there within 45 minutes. The rain started to drizzle but within minutes it transforms into a heavy pour. Drenched outside, my double layer jacket given comfort riding. It's a cosy feeling when the entire world is in wet and cold, you only riding with little heat in the chest. Slowly I reached Mananthavady I took Slight right at Kaithakkal Juma Masjid onto Mananthavady-Koyileri-Panamaram Rd and Pass by Vaderi Shiva Temple and Valliyoorkavu temple.

Mananthavady

Gandhi Park, Centre of town at  Mananathavady

Alternate Name: Manantoddy, Mananthody, Manthady, Mananthavadi, North Wayanad, Melangadi, and Hosengadi. Malayalam is the language, but Tamil and Kannada are widely accepted, along with tribal languages. Hindi and English also can be used without much trouble.

Mananthavady has been referred to as "Hosenkadi" in a dictum scribbled under a copper artefact found at the Ananthanathaswamy Temple at Varadoor. The dominant view on the etymology is that the word is derived from "Mane Eytha Vady (The place where an arrow was shot at the deer)". This view is strengthened by the existence of a place called Ambukuthy, literally the location where the arrow pierced, on the outskirts of the town.

This area was once ruled by the Pazhassi dynasty and the tomb of Pazhassi Raja is an important heritage site located in the heart of the town. Mananthavady was a major army camp for the British during their campaign against Pazhassi. One can still see the vestiges of the colonial period - canteen, club, barracks, rest house, cemetery - around Mananthavady. 

The red circle is Ib of Manantoddy and the blue circle was the fort and its cemetery, now Latin Church

Relations of old and new photo. Compare the difference. The marks may help you. click images for larger view

1901 photo of Convent hill, Mananthavady

The most conspicuous of them is at the town and post of Manantody മാനന്തവാടി .The cantonment at this place on a low flat hill (ലത്തീൻ പള്ളി ഏരിയ)consists of a small redoubt an artillery shed, താലൂക്ക് ഓഫീസ് കുന്ന്, a range of officers quarters (NGO QUARTERS) , place of arms പഴയ പോലീസ് സ്റ്റേഷൻ , hospital etc. There is an upper roomed house here used as a cutcherry now falling to decay.

Took a night rest at Mananthavady. The night was too long as I thought about the sighting of a wild tiger on the same route, only a week ago, and hoping to see him again. That meeting was like this:

First Tiger sighting in Life

That was a rainy evening. My Yezdi bike needed restoration and in a group of 3 bikes, we made a ride to  Mysore. We were returning from Mysore and did a speedy ride to reach the forest gate which will close at 6.pm.we are the last few ones cross the Check post that day. It was usual to see some elephants in Bavali forest and that day we found wild guars also with the elephant herd. When we reached About 8 kilometres to Bavali, there is a bridge and its left side we saw him. I was riding as a pillion. Akhil said look there is a Puli inside bushes. He stopped the bike just in front of the bushes. I didn't see anything. In Malayalam Puli denotes mostly of panthers. Kaduva makes correct meaning of tiger. About 6 months ago we saw a leopard in the same area and I thought it may be the same one. Akhil pushed back the bike without switch off the engine. I could see him in a little clearing between the bushes.only to see the king of the jungle in a pool of water.

In wilderness in the first time of my life, I said it's a huge tiger. He is looking at directly about 30 meters away in the bank of a small stream. The half-crouching position he met our eyes and he exclaimed too. We too were in a tensed mood for a couple of minutes. His coat and colour were not too bright and not neat. So I assumed that it is an old one. We never heard any growl or calling and maybe he stopped in between an attempt to cross the road and we interrupted. After about 1 minute in the clearing, he drew himself in a small bush near the pond.

He didn't jump over the stream and gone the other side. We can still see his back in leafy background. We waited full 5 minutes in starting position and about to leave him alone cars came from the opposite road and the family has also seen him and making huge noises. Now the tiger is Later one more car came and the youths dared to come out of the car and speaking loudly. The situation is not in favour both of us and the tiger and I lied that he has gone to the forest already after they left we decided to leave him alone in his home. .Just before our start, we saw him one more time, as he jumps to the opposite side of the stream.  Photo was taken by My friend Mashood Mint.

Machur .On Bavali HD Kote road

We were riding through Bavali forest with mixed feelings and little fear of meeting other animals in this dusk. We met 3 elephants small in size were staying calmly at undergrowth of high trees... We stopped for a tea at the village junction on Machur and from there we met our Co-riders. We learned. That this particular old tiger selected the area as his new territory and locals villagers are in fear of him... He occasionally lifts cattle and not afraid of human presence. I remembered the stories of old tigers with cases of cattle lifts can become man-eater. On the tea shop, everybody advised not to go alone. Our teammates never have seen the tiger. After hearing our story they told they had actually lost balance when they saw the elephant in front of them in the middle of the road and fell down. Both of them had minor injuries... I suggested to change the bike riders and continued the trip. 

The night passed and after freshening up I am ready to go. By this time, Akhil had bought a brand new Honda unicorn as that was his dream machine. It has a disc brake and self-start, the most helpful things I ever needed. It just clocked 450 kilometers. I got, a new companion for the trip, I thought. Next day morning I didn't say to him that I am going for a long trip, obviously, he may not agree and my plan will be spoiled. I told as I  wanted to visit some friends, borrow me your bike, and keep the old Victor for you. And within 10 minutes I hit the road to Mysore.

Read In my next post related to Mananthavady:

I never knew that immediately after Kerala border we will be entering the Kakana Kote forests, before reading the book Tiger roars written by Kenneth Anderson. He described the geography very well and accurate. In his story, The killer of the  Wayanad, Manantoddy, Kakkankote and Tholpetty forest are involved.

The essence of The Killer of the Wynaad

A tiger turns to man-eating in the jungle of Wynaad, Manantoddy. Anderson takes up the challenge to find it. The tiger killed a man in Mananthavady town limit, then continue to take lives on Kabani riverside and Bavali forest. Anderson describes the Kheddah operation of  Kakankote and geography of wayanad in detail.  Whilst staying in a local village the tiger pulls a sleeping man out from under his hut and makes off with him into the forest. Anderson and his friend track the tiger and soon find the meager human remains in a grassland area. With no trees within shooting distance, Anderson and his friend face a terrifying night sat back to back in the long grass as they await the man-eaters return.

Links to other blogposts related to Kennath Anderson stories:

The Man-eater-of-crescent-mountains

Killer-from Hyderabad WB

The-black-panther-of-sivanipalli-

Kankanhalli-town-with-that-alliterative.

Bailurman-and-machine-trip-part-12

Biligundlu-man-and-machine-trip-part.10

Hogenakkalman-and-machine-trip-part-9

Panapatti-man-and-machine-trip-part-8

Kempekaraiman-and-machine-trip-part-7

Gerattiman-and-machine-trip-part-6.

Around-anchettyman-and-machine-5

spotted-devil-of-gummalapur-4

man-and-machine-trip-3-

the-killer-of-wayanad- 2

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