As my journey in a bike continues, and that day I already covered Kempekarai. My plan was to visit Pennagaram,Panapatti, Hogenakkal and if possible, Biligundu and return to Hogenekkal to stay at night. I used some of my photos liberally on this page. Please click the images for an enlarged view.
I stayed a few minutes in Pennagram before moving to the next
destination. It's a small but crowded town and a new bypass reduces the volume of
traffic in the town. Anderson describes the town in some of his stories. In those
days, he motored to Pennagram by his car and left it for long treks to the villages
of the deep jungle. It is not known where is his normal halting place in the town;
otherwise, I would try to trace it. I knew that it's the town of KA'S friend Ranga. But, I
felt tracking Ranga is like searching a needle in the haystack. Moreover, I have too little details
about him to conduct a detailed search.
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| Reached Pennagaram |
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| Well connected to the nearest towns. |
Pennagram is also mentioned in the story the strange case of
Gerhatti leopard. The watchman of Gerhatti forest bungalow stole a bathtub from
the bungalow and hide it in his girlfriend's house in order to make Anderson a
culprit. But Anderson and Ranga find the truth and bestowed the lady and
the caretaker in front of law with the help of local police authorities. I just want to see the police station. Police are
involved in this story in another KA story of Mumptyvayan,(locally know as Mammatian). It's a mentionable place because Mumptyvayan appeared publicly in Pennagaram town while he was widely seeking by police in the forest. He entered in a theatre for an evening show, and at the interval, he took all days collection and fled. It was here, he spent the last
moments of his life before death came in the form of poisoning and killing by his mistress.
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| Pennagram town and location of Police station |
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| Old Police station (photo from FB) |
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| New Police station, Pennagaram |
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| The curved road to Hogenakkal from Pennagaram |
Travelling through the highway is a bit more relaxing feel. The roads I covered today were through dense jungle. Soon
I got in confusion over my next destination named Panapatti. I have searched
all over net and GPS maps to locate this village but in vain. I enquired
several people about this cattle Patti. But failed to get correct directions. Those who wish to visit there, and suppose you travelling from Pennagaram to Hogenakkal road, ask for the water treatment plant, locally known as the water tank. You must divert to a mud path of your right side from the main road after second water tank.
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| Location of Panapatti encircled in blue, the curved road just before the water treatment plant in Red, and the path marked in pink |
I was against to mention the village in public, as it will result in frequent visits of some enthusiastic like me which will affect the privacy of the jungle dwellers. So I do not want to reveal the direction publicly. But later I changed my mind as there is no harm on this matter.
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| Water treatment plant |
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| Water Treatment plant s marked in Blue, abandoned bridge in black and, path in pink Click n the image for a larger view |
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| Straight view to Water Plant and t to Pananpatti. Photo was taken from the curved road. Panapatti is lying behind the first hill |
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| Aerial view of My relative position of photography from the curved road using google earth,is marked in pink, Panapatti situated behind the red arrow, grazing hills can be seen in green arrows, and Woddapetti peak in the background (purple arrow), the main road in blue arrows |
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| Oddapetti Rain forest view, Woddapetti peak in the background |
After entering the path and to the wilderness, within seconds I felt it
may be a bumpy ride. Rocks and boulders all over the path and roots of trees
always running perpendicular to the path. There is no road even for a bullock
cart. indeed it is a mere forest track, but I found an abandoned small concrete bridge near to the path.
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| Panapatti and its relations to the Water tank (Black circle), main road(Pink), Deviation and path (Blue), and the shortcut to grazing area to the car (Green) which circumvents some hillocks described as "Karadimedu" |
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| The lone path to Panapatti. |
It is now evident that I made a good decision in selecting the right bike to this trip. Low weight but the well-powered engine and tubeless
tyre of my Unicorn is much better than the old Enfield Bullet. on enquiry, One of the village men told me that this route is famous for elephant attacks. And advised me to have an extra
caution near a temple along the pathway, because elephants are omnipresent
there. So my ride was slow as I took a long time to negotiate the
temple. Obviously, it was hot midday and any elephants if there may resting in shades of their adobe.
Sooner I reached the temple situated on the left side of the pathway to Panapatti. Actually, it's not a building which I had expected. It is a small raised piece earth without any roof or wall. But for jungle folks, it's a temple.
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| A small stream crosses the path |
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| The site of Temple |
I saw some stone idols but was not brave enough to get down and inspect for a closer look.
I thought it's better to check the place in my return trip if time allows. It has a weird
and unpleasant silence hung over there. The place should have some unknown importance, in jungle tales. This spot seems which has all the opportunity to be a place
of tiger attack which depicts the story of Sathyanarayan and Madree. Probably Sathyanarayan's wife and child killed here in this same place. Perhaps Sathyanarayan also killed
by the mysterious tiger here. Both incidents occurred on the midway between main
road and Panapatti. The temple is situated on the middle of the pathway
too.
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| The difficult path, to Panapatti |
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| The relative position of the temple(Red) and Ppanapatti(Black).The main road (Blue arrow) can be seen |
At that moment I recalled the rogue elephant's story and where
Anderson described an Indian gentleman shikari tried to shoot the
elephant. The group camped somewhere in the forest in one night and the
elephant killed the gentleman in that cold night despite his followers made a
firewall around the camp. I saw a patch of clearing of the forest and assumed the
place is a probable locality for the camping site. Luckily I didn't see any
animals in the empty roadside
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| At some places, the road is wide and smooth |
I felt loneliness as well as the fear that place when I noticed
some footprints of elephants. But I would assume that it is several days old because
the mud is dried up. Slowly moving, I rarely stopped to take some photos. The
photos u seen in the post are taken in my return journey after assured by the
villagers of Panapatti that now elephants are gone to the riverside of Chinnar
for water and more food.
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| A shady area of a dried up rivulet runs parallel to the path |
At last, I reached my destination, Panapatti, which looked like a small island in the green ocean of forest.
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| Found this shelter at the end. Only one building exist. |
The shelter is a simple building constructed in a manner rather
like a cellar. 12 families residing here and allowed one room for a family. Due to this architectural
flaw few Families residing there. The area looks deserted except an old couple and some girls. I greeted the old couple and after introduced
myself, I enquired about the living conditions and the forest around them. They have stayed in this hamlet since their birth and all of the residents are of a
particular cast who totally depending on forest and cattle grazing.
This small hamlet has appeared in different stories of KA, Mainly the
Rogue Elephant of Panapatti, Jungle long ago and in Mumptyvayan story. As told
by KA, in a story, Panapatti is very difficult to locate. No Google map will
help you to get there. Even local people within 2 km couldn't guide me a proper
way. This hamlet is in the middle of the forest and now in a desperate condition. There
is no road, no electricity and basic living conditions are so poor.
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| Read the board as Vana Pathukappu Maiyyam |
In my Limited knowledge of Tamil, read the board as Vana Pathukappu
Maiyyam, but not understood the real meaning. No other building in the hamlet
and about 10 -12 families living in this single shelter like building. Forest
officials are trying to relocate the families by not giving basic facilities.
The only good thing I observed that all of the children getting some kind of
education in schools and the TN government ensures this by sending officials to
this remote village. Tamil Nadu is pretty advanced in providing such public
services. But for getting at school is a problem, as children are so scared to walk through thick elephant infested jungle daily.
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| Google map of Panapatti(Black) Chinnar River (blue) Cattle Pens (red arrows) and the lone path (pink) in a rainy month |
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| The same area of Hamlet Panapatti(Black), Chinnar River (blue), Cattle Pens (red arrows) and the lone path (pink) in a dry season |
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| Even though I could not see any other cattle here, I could notice some goats like this |
I have posted some of my doubts about the villages problems in a
facebook group and my friends given some perfect answers. I have doubled my
doubt when I saw the condition of the hamlet. I felt villagers living a peaceful
life but often have troubles which sandwiched between animals and pressure from the forest department for relocation. I didn't see any type of cattle in the
surroundings. There is a place which seems like a cattle pen, an encircled area
about 100 meters away from the hamlet but void of animals at least for that time.
I didn't pay attention to this matter, but I am sure that there are not much
grazing activities going on.
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| An old couple in the forest, with a rare visitor, my Unicorn |
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| The shelter and jungle are too close |
Panapatti, as you know, is a cattle kraal. Forest department allowed to graze cattle in the
forests, but they should be brought out before the end of the day. I am not sure in these days such permission is allowed or not. However, People continue to pen the cattle at Pattis which has
led to a lot of degradation of forests. Even goats are
being grazed and penned which is entirely illegal.
These villagers at these Pattis,
usually, graze cattle and goats on contract from some rich person from places like Dharmapuri and Pennagram. These people may also be exploited by poachers and some of
them may well be poachers themselves. Grazing has affected the forest's biodiversity
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| Gathering and ritual area in Panapatti |
The hamlet of Panapatti mentioned in the stories "In a Jungle
Long Ago" - where Sathyanarayan has an affair with Mardee of Panapatti
"Rogue Elephant of Panapatti",
"Queer Side of Things" - Mumptyvayan and the was trapped
by a police officer near Panapatti
"Anebiddahalla Tigress" - While explaining tiger
movement in the Cauvery-Chinnar belt
"The Creatures of the Jungle" - KA shoots wild boar at
Panapatti.
In a Jungle Long Ago.A walk back
Of this list, the first two stories listed above are attractive and narrative of forest life and are much related to the village of Panapatti. Anderson described human behaviour and activities rather than animal activities in the first story. It has a little bit Unbelievable content of a mysterious tiger attack without any pug marks nearby or reported man-eating tiger in the area at that time. However, the story is very interesting in terms of humanity and jungle rules. As well as, Anderson made an accurate
geological description of this area. The spots mentioned in the story accurately coincides with my observations and matches with maps. So I attempt to give a clearer picture of
this area. I always thought that the storyline is perfect for a typical story for a commercial south Indian film.
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| Panapatti, after 1990, appears like this. |
The essence of the story, In a Jungle Long Ago.
The story reveals the mystery of the murder committed by a landlord’s
son Sathyanarayan. The love-affair between Sathyanarayan and Mardee, a daughter
of Poojaree Kaiyara leads to the unfortunate death of Mardee. Then there is a series
of deaths that occur after the first murder. Anderson attempts to solve the
mystery of deaths but he fails to do so as it was the spirit of the black
magician Kaiyara, the poojaree who had avenged the murder of his only daughter
and himself.
The story happened in is Panapatti were rich landlords inhabiting
the large town of Dharampuri. Handed over their cattle during to the lowest
caste of Poojarees who were jungle-men belonging to an aboriginal tribe. Kaiyara
was such a poojaree. He was living with his wife and daughter, Mardee. His wife
died by a snake-bite and he was left alone with his little girl, Mardee, to
look after.
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| Young ladies in Panapatti |
The years passed and Mardee grown up into an attractive young Woman.
Many of the poor herdsmen and Poojarees coveted her and Came to Kaiyara with the proposal of marriage. Mardee was of a determined nature and had always aimed
high, far above the local Poojarees and cattle boys.
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| New Generation of Kaiyyara and Mardee, lived here. |
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| Main road and spot of the parked car and the Filthy track. |
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| The track today covered with bushes and trees, making even walking difficult |
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| Relative positions of Dharmapuri, Pennagram and Pananpatti. |
Then one day, the Eldest son of a rich landlord and merchant, Sathyanarayan
came to Panapatti. He was married and had a wife and young Son. He saw Mardee
for the first time and lusted after her greatly. He had fallen in love with
her. Sathyanarayan seduced her and she became pregnant. Everybody in the Patti
knew about it. Kaiyara asked his daughter and she admitted that Sathyanarayan
had promised to marry her. But when Kaiyara asked Sathyanarayan about his relationship
Mardee he became furious refused any affair with her and disappeared. Then
after a few days he abducted Mardee and murdered her. As Mardee vanished from the
Panapatti everybody thought that she had been taken away by a tiger.
The road to pennagram, with a high gradient curve and steep incline, mentioned in the story. Google topography map matches with all descriptions.
Google map of the main road and probably spot of the accident taken place, as mentioned in the story
The descriptions coincide with the real spots. You can see Muttur Track, a probable spot of the parked car before the meeting of the lovers, and site of abduction,(red). And from there, a short cut (blue) to the grazing ground(Pink). The main road junction and Panapatti is marked in black. Karadimedu can be seen, but more clearly in next pic
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3D picture of the same location using google earth. The red circle denotes probable spot where Das waited with a parked car,, Blue dotted line is the short cut from Panapatti(yellow Dot), Somewhere in between the final meeting between the lovers taken place. The mark denotes the hillock named Karadimedu(Bears hill), with Woodapatti peak on the background.
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The photo was taken from the curved road. Panapatti is lying behind the first hill on the picture, known as Karadimedu
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Kaiyara was a black magician who could cast powerful spells. At the public meeting, Kaiyara declared that some evil man has exploited his daughter. He has taken her away and perhaps murdered her. He explained to the villagers that they are poor and helpless people. The person who spoiled Mardee’s life, the evil man is very rich. But Kaiyara has the power to curse him and his family. He will go in search of his beloved daughter, he may not come back. He then loudly cast a spell and cursed Sathyanarayan and his family. He claimed that his curse will destroy Sathyanarayan’s family. After Kaiyara left Panapatti, he never came back and Sathyanarayan murdered him with the help of his driver Das. He had thrown his body in the large water tank besides the high way to Selam.
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I scanned for a large water tank within 40 miles Dharmapuri especially to Selam, to locate the tank in the story. There are several tanks, but this is the only one lies beside the road, nearly matches with all descriptions. I believe there is only one error of the unit of measurement, as The distance measured is by miles as per the story and it was wrong as per new maps. The place is nearby and a little before a small village junction called Deevattipatti with 39 kilometres away from Dharmapuri
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| The Water tank in close view, lies about 39 kilometres away from Dharmaputri, While Anderson mentioned as 40 MILES away. It may be an error. The Highway is made to four-lane recently, known as Varanasi–Kanyakumari highway (NH-7), the Longest National Highway of India connecting passes through it. |
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| Closer view of the water tank, a common sight in south India, besides the road, which acts as a perfect bund also to the water. Its position at the left side of the highway with a left curve, when travelling from Salem is important and only such a kind in this route. |
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| Salem- Dharmapuri route in monsoon ( courtesy: Flutter like a butterfly) |
Then
after six months, Sathyanarayan and his family visited Panapatti for the Pongal
festival. A strange incident happened there between the Panapatti and the main
road. Sathyanarayan and his family were walking together. His wife was little
behind him with his crying son. Suddenly a tiger appeared and took away his
wife and only son. The next day villagers discovered their bodies. But the
tiger did not eat any part of their bodies! Anderson was there at that time. He
searched for the tiger but there was no evidence of the tiger. The
villagers said that it was the spirit of Kaiyara who had avenged the murder of
his only daughter and of himself. The poojaree had assumed the form of a tiger
to fulfil the curse.
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| The pathway near the temple, somewhere here tiger attacked Sathyanarayan's crying kid and then his wife. the ground is so hard to get any pugmarks. |
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| The path and main road, as Sathyanarayanan and his father, ran for life to the parked car. |
After few days Sathyanarayan's driver also met a tragic death. His car
fell in the same large tank in which he had thrown the dead body of Kaiyara.
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| This must be the road which" narrowed down to traverse the winding bund of a large deep tank".Distance from Salem to Dharmapuri is 39 Miles ( 63 Km ) and from the tank to Darmapuri 21 Miles ( 34 Km), by Google and modern measurements. Note that Anderson mentioned first one as 65 miles and second as 40 miles. It seems he has confusion or mistake as he recorded miles instead of kilometres. |
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| 3D aerial view of the tank, After the village Deevaatipatti, The tank lies on the left side of the road. Assuming that the left side traffic system in India, it matches with descriptions. The area is called Elatthur water tank. If any body having more pictures of the water tank, please mail to me to add it here. |
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| 2006 google earth image of the same area. It is evident that there was an old road( red), with a sharp curve(green) just before the bund of the water tank(pink). Assuming that was the old road, which Das drove his car into the pool, It is possible to have an accident in a similar style narrated in the story. Note that the highway has been deviated and made a wider road (still 2 lanes), before 2006. |
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| 2014 image in a closer look, with 4 lane road. especially at the left side of the highway with a left curve, when travelling from Salem |
Sathyanarayan
heard the news and madness fell upon him. First, his son, then his wife and now
the driver lost their lives and he
became convinced that it was his turn next. Meanwhile, Anderson tried
to shoot the tiger that attacked his wife and son but failed to shoot the
tiger. The villagers refused to help Anderson because for them it was not a
tiger but a spirit!
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| Anderson's movement depicted in this map. |
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| The probable shortcut to Panapatti from Ootamalai. |
Sathyanarayan was admitted to a mental hospital. and One
day he disappeared from home. After four days Byra, the poojaree saw vultures
circling in the sky at the pathway between Panapatti and main road. Being a hunter he went
for investigation and found that it was the body of Sathyanarayan. He had been
killed by a tiger, but no part of his flesh had been eaten. Byra and the other Poojarees
searched the whole area for pug-marks, but they had found none.
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| Again at the lone path, Sathyanarayan's body was recovered, by Byra. |
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| A view of the lone path, somewhere in midway. |
Thank you, Anderson, for this his wonderful story of a mysterious spirit and mystery, which
shows that you are a great writer.
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Wonderful retelling of the sad painful Sathanarayana-Mardee-Kaiyara tragedy. Truly, can be made into a great movie or an episode in 'fear Files' etc.
ReplyDeleteIf only saner minds had prevailed, the Sathyanarayana-Mardee_Kaiyara triangle would have probably been forgotten, and most probably, I would not read your account!
Great work- I wonder who'll go there and take pics of the Tank- I wish I could.