Biligundlu,Man and Machine trip- Part 10(The Rogue-Elephant of Panapatti-A walkbalk)
This is
my 10th part of a journey in a motorbike through the Melagiri the region, which are closely related with Kenneth Anderson Stories. Till
now my lone trip was a success and continues...
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Biligundlu on Google map. Part of Kavery and a small stream -can be seen. The Tarred road in the right side is Hogenakkal -Natrampalayam Anchetty road |
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The T junction near the village. The straight road extends to Hogenakkal |
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Biligundlu (Biliguntala) village.Biligundlu is often in the news, especially when disputes arise over the waters of the Kavery, Biligundlu offers plenty for nature lovers. |
“The Rogue-Elephant of Panapatti”
This story is featured in the
first book of Anderson "Nine Man Eaters and one
Rogue".This is a shorter story comparing to others in that book. When I started reading, at my school days, I was not aware of the meaning of
a rogue and exclaimed what it would be? So I was so curious to read this
chapter after reading one or two stories from the beginning.
The essence of the story
Anderson
giving a description of an elephant that is an antagonist in this story
and mentions its peculiarity that he had one tusk, about eighteen
inches long.
This elephant
had a major encounter with the leader of the herd. The youngster had
eventually bolted, and beaten with powerful tusks of a bigger
male. After the fierce battle with the leader, resulting in his defeat the
'rogue’ had wandered for a few days in the vicinity of the herd. One day he
attacked the buffalo cart, proceeded to smash the cart. Therefore the
elephant steadily worsened his reputation.
Soon
the government the forest department declared this creature as ‘rogue’
elephant and broadcasted official notification offering a reward of
Rs. 500.
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File photo of such a small elephant with one lost tusk near to a waterhole. Courtesy: Sudeep ,Waynad Natures. |
Anderson narrates
the horrible attack of the rogue on a hunter who had come to
Panapatti. The rogue carefully made his way through the campfire and
rushed upon the tent with a scream of range to kill the hunter. The
government reward was increased to Rs. 1000 as a result of this incident.
Anderson accepted the challenge
and arriving at Panapatti, he visited the scene of the tragedy. With the
help of the cattlemen from adjoining villages, he spent four days searching
for the elephant, laboriously traversing the grass belt and the bamboos,
crossing the range of foothills and descending their further slopes up to
the waters of the Cauvery River. On the fifth day, they came upon the fresh
tracks of the elephant which had evidently crossed the river from the
opposite bank of the Coimbatore District. Anderson describes his stalking
of the elephant. They followed some foothills more than five miles and
finally, they saw an elephant lying on its side in the water in a creek.
Anderson made snapping sound to confirm the identity of the ‘rogue of Panapatti’.
The elephant screamed with triumph and hate and then charged across the
water but Anderson shot him dead. In our walkback, we will trace the same.
My experience in the Hogenakkal
I had some experience in some
places mentioned in the story, just to share with you. The Forest rest
house in Hogenakkal is one of such places. which I have pictured before.
After finishing my recreational
trips in Hogenakkal in that fine evening, I decided to move forward to
Biligundlu. Actually, I visited the village after the short walk over
through the creek. This particular village appears some of the stories of
KA and is an important landmark. It's a small village situated on
the banks of Kavery and the ghat road to Anchetty via Natrampalayam runs through the area.
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Riverbanks of Kavery on the way to Bilidundalu.A roadside view of Kavery |
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The riverbed. is dried up and I thought it is easier to go through the sands. |
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But there were some pools of water along the creek |
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So I had to climb over the banks to make a forward move |
Experienced the wilderness and cool breeze from Kavery in the afternoon hours. The large trees gave enough shade
Sands, rocks and water intermingled in this streambed, making perfect nesting place for jungle creatures. The last picture was taken when I just reaching Kavery river.
Our villain
of the story, the rogue elephant of Panapatti gone through the
same way to bath at the joining point of the stream, in the last moments of
his life. So walking slowly I was impatient as it
took much time and my way was longer than I thought. Negotiating some
rocks as well as swamps on my way I reached the point where the stream joins to
Kavery. Most probably it was here where Anderson shot the elephant. The
waters are calm and placid. I saw some village ladies coming to Kavery for
washing clothes. Spending about 10 minutes at that location I imagined and
played back a scene of the encounter happened long ago.
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Reaching the destination at the shooting site of the Rogue elephant of Panapatti, Kavery can be seen |
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The banks are overgrown by thick vegetation even in the summer. |
On return, I preferred
a much shorter route through the shades of large trees. The area is full of good
and long trees with thick undergrowth. Here I found a flock of goats returning
to the village of Biligundlu. Playfully I wanted to test my tiger roaring sounds
in a second time to these creatures and watch the reaction. I opened the
app and sound in speaker my iPhone. The loud roaring sound of the king of the
jungle trembles in the shades. But unbelievingly, the goats had no such a
reaction which I expected. They simply stop walking, raised their heads and
looked at the source of the sound with curiosity. Then they again started walking
with frequent bites of grass here and there. It seems they don't have any
fear of the roaring sound, as I plunged... During this process of walking
with them, I missed the real way back, but after a little confusion, I arrived at
the spot of my parked Unicorn.
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I didn't understand why the water is so muddy. Maybe some big animals or a crocodile played here just before my arrival. |
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Found these feathers of birds scattered all over the shore. I was keen to check that any Crocodiles around. Noted the footprints and smooth rocks with muddy coverings. Only such an animal can do that. Another possibility is a fishing activity by villagers. But there was nobody in the vicinity to confirm this. |
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I went down to the mouth of the stream and looked back to the forest. |
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So it was here the incident happened. My heart overwhelmed by my thoughts. |
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Both sides of the banks are in a relative high position. This made Anderson had a good command over his quarry. |
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Returning is difficult in this terrain. Water is clear here. |
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Wilderness all around |
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Lost my way,but I enjoyed the whole scene |
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Finally reached my bike. He was alone at this all time. maybe frightened. |
I visited
Biligundlu in the evening. It's a typical small sleeping forest village.
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2001 Google image of the same spot. Note the road is a mud and dirt road, and not in tarmac. Then it was not used as the main route to Anchetty. I think the other road through spider valley was used as the main road between Pennagaram and Anchetty. |
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Biligundlu |
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Relative positions of spider vally and Hogenakkal, and Biligundlu |
The
Rogue Elephant of Panapatti a WALK BACK
An
elephant with one whole tusk and one-half tusks turns rogue in the Panapatti
area and is responsible for multiple human deaths. Anderson first encounters
the elephant when out trying to bag a peacock - armed only with a shotgun.
Anderson escapes unscathed, though the elephant goes on to attack a camp of
people - causing the government to double its reward for the animal. Anderson
spends five laborious days tracking the elephant through the jungle, finally
coming across a lone elephant - but is unsure if it is the right animal until
it turns to face him...
Anderson
Describes the First Meeting
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Forest Rest house in Hogenakkal. 1942 photo courtesy Joshua Mathew.. |
In
the evening of the day, after having fishing, Anderson returned to the
forest lodge for tea, when the call of a peacock tempted him to go
after the bird, which would make me tasty roast for dinner. He cut
diagonally across the forest to the glen where the peacock was calling.
Reaching it, he stepped cautiously forward to locate quarry, and he
can hear of the sound of the Cauvery River, which it joined a mile further
down.
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The first page of the story. the story happened in banks of Kavery and Chinnar, between Panapatti and Biligundlu area, better to tell, around Hogenakkal. |
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Odapatty(Wodapatty) and Pennagram Reserve forests are divided by Chinnar river. |
Anderson has given a detailed picture of the event when the elephant becoming a rogue, as he witnessed the incident. actually, we were also with him when he narrates.. See the example of the Buffalo attack
"He suddenly
face to face with a buffalo cart, Madly he rushed at the cart, and the driver just escaped by jumping off and fleeing for life. But the unfortunate buffaloes were yoked to
the heavily-laden vehicle and stood helpless.
The rogue proceeded to smash
the cart and then turned his attention on
the Buffaloes. One he seized by its long, curving horn, and flung down the embankment
that bordered the track. where it was found next day with its horn torn out from
the roots; one of its fore-legs had suffered a compound fracture, and the
broken, exposed bone had dug itself into the soft earth with the force of the fall,
so that the weight of the animal effectively anchored it to the spot. The remaining
buffalo it had gored with its one tusk, but this animal had bolted down the track,
dragging the broken yoke of the cart behind it, and so escaped the fate of its less
fortunate companion."
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Old postcard of British India depicting a bullock cart. "Travelling in Jungle India". Posting it here just for remembering the conditions of so-called roads and the transport system at KA time |
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Relative positions of Forest rest house(marked in blue) and Probable place of peacock' call. |
KA's
rubber-soled boots made no noise on the soft sand. He could even hear the
rustle of the peacock's feathers somewhere behind the bushes on the opposite
bank, and was just tip-toeing across the stream, the rogue charged at KA. Within
fifty yards away. KA had no chance of out-distancing him,
because of the soft sand and g thorny shrubs of the jungle. KA covered the
curled trunk in the sights of his shot-gun and fired both barrels at a
range of about thirty yards. The noise of the gun and the bullets
stopped the rogue and, while it screamed with rage and
defiance, KA fled at a pace KA had never thought himself capable.
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Probable location of the first meeting with the elephant, in Chinnar bed |
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In the rainy season the same place transforms to a dense forest. |
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The rouge escaped to the Wodapetty block |
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Panapatti is very near to the location of the first incident. Woddapetti and Pennagram blocks are intersected by Chinnar. The local Gentleman shikary tented somewhere here in this area, marked in green, with a distance of 2 miles from Chinnar. |
The
rogue attack a hunters Camp
In
the early hours of the morning the rogue came upon a local hunter's night camp.
He carefully made his way through at a point where
there was no fire and rushed upon the tent with a scream of rage.
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Somewhere here the camp was made and in that dread full night rogue killed the shikari |
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A possible campsite. Note Wodpetti peak |
The
camp followers awoke at the pandemonium created and, fled in all directions.
The unfortunate hunter of the white tent could not run away. The elephant destroyed
the tent which then proceeded to tear it to ribbons. Then he took the hunter
with his dreaded trunk around the unfortunate man, it carried him off in
triumph to the clearing of a forest line which passed nearby. There it
literally rubbed him into the ground. The body becomes a pulpy mass of
bloody flesh and crushed bones, mixed with sand. Finally, not liking the
smell of blood, it tossed the body far away and returned to the forest
Anderson
Describes the Second and Final Meeting
As a
result of the above incident, the Government reward was doubled, while KA
determined to begin second round against the elephant. Arriving at
Panapatti, KA visited the scene of the recent tragedy.
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Wodadapatti block was the main searching area. |
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Here in these spots, may be at that time, the flowering grasses grown wildly. |
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Still, as you can see at the center of the river such types grass grown (Photo from another location) |
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KA SPEND FOUR DAYS OF SEARCHING |
Anderson followed the track of elephant through the jungle for days. And on fifth day day, he got a clue of the elephant's movement in the banks of Kavery River, 3 kilometers upstream from Hogenakkal
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Possible spot of tracking the elephaNt in Kavery River Banks with lot of Muthee trees. |
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I rechecked with Google earth for a distance of three miles from Hogenakal and this is a possible spot of Kavery River Bank, where Anderson started tracking |
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Lots of tall trees clothed in banks of Kavery. I came to the spot at the bank of 3 miles from Hogenakkal and remembered Anderson scanned the whole area and started to follow the footprints from somewhere at this point. |
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The final Tracking Route. I marked the progress of both Elephant and KA by Red Arrows. The foothill and it's top marked in blue. KA followed on to a deep valley and must be the same marked in green. He again climbed the slope and negotiated two more foothills(Marked in Yellow). Then the rogue turned to the Kavery river. I wonder how accurate was his description of the topography and collective powers. He had no computer, or any map or google to help! |
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This is one of the good examples of KA's skill in writing. Kavery is near, with a sharp dip(pink) and water between tree stems. a grassy bank is marked in black,(See the pic below) and the creek( Green). the spot is marked in the red dot. |
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The grassy bank |
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The only stream to the Kaveri River,(as wider for an elephant can bath) from Hogenakal, in closeup, of shooting spot.
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The Shoot
After following about 5 miles in the forest and banks of Kavery Anderson came to a creek where he saw the elephant enjoying a bath. Within minutes the elephant stood up and proceed to start. The situation made an early decision, as once the elephant reached the thick verdure clothing the opposite bank of the creek; it would be lost to view. Anderson snapped his thumb with a swish around and there was 'rogue of Panapatti', with a broken left tusk clearly in view within a second his small eyes located and charged.
Anderson fired once only and the heavy bullet hit straight to its mark beneath the coiling trunk and into the throat. The animal stopped and turned sideways in an attempt to make off, when two more rounds hit at vital places, one the temple, and the other behind the ear.
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KA didn't allow the rogue to cross the stream. The spot |
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So it was the red spot, The hill on the other bank can be seen |
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The hill and river banks of Kavery in a wider, arial aspect |
I rode to Natrampalayam
and only when I saw the board near to the town did I stop to quench my thirst, because I was
told that some forest road will close at 6 pm or so. I rode straight to ghat roads and a sunset point which was right by the roadside and was infested
with monkeys. Just sat there, reflected upon the day, was feeling a bit tired and
just looked around as more and more people started gathering at that small town.In
the meantime some gentlemen asked me
about my rides. I told them about my plan and we talked about bike trips,
riding alone, all the way, wildlife sanctuaries, and photography. This lightened
my heart and made me forget the tiredness. In the meantime Sunset began in
all grandeur and the experience and ambiance and sky changing colors gradually,
were and are beyond mere-wordily-description. Hope you will enjoy the cameras
talks...
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Natrampalayam Road in renovations |
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Natrampalayam village |
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Natrampalayam I too read the notice boards |
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Natrampalayam |
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Sun is slowly closing down his shop |
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Keep rolling. We will end up where we belong. |
Thank you, KA for this story to make me explore here...
Declaimer: My observations in this post may be wrong by 100%. Readers discrepancy is expected. Please send any photos if you feel appropriate to add here..
Links to other blog posts related to Kenneth Anderson stories:
The Man-eater-of-crescent-mountains
I could not see the dates of your journey.neither you reply...old like to visit the places in car..possible?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
DeleteNice to see that you're following in Andersons steps, I was too inspired by his stories and have followed the routes but most of the forest is gone.... :(
ReplyDeleteHi this bhagwat
ReplyDeletecould you please post the photo of the rock, which saved life of KA and other from the elephant
Hi Bhagwat: The rock, which saved life of KA and others from the elephant is not from this story. It lies deep forest in Moyar valley.
ReplyDeleteAll the area mentioned here are well connected with excellent roads.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDelete