The lighthouse in Cochin

The Signal Tower- 1603

One of the landmarks of medieval Fort Kochi, under Portuguese's Fort Kochi, it remained in glory, until the late days of the 1890s

The lighthouse in Cotschi (Kochi )
Year :1850-97
Photographer :Unknown
The place is now Overgrown with a banyan tree. Near to south side of present Nehru Children Park,Fort Kochi.
The Signal tower stood in center of current Nehru Park, which was the Main square of Fort Kochi in medieval days.

It was a busy signal tower as it communicated with the approaching ships and sent out signals locally too. A basket, a cage, flags, torchlight were all used as signals. A signal was put up when a ship laden with goods was coming. With it the locals knew what was required to board the ship. If coir was to be shipped out they got busy assembling the produce.

Likewise for pepper and other spices. It signalled to fishermen about inclement weather or about sickness on board, a passing or approaching ship. This signal tower was brought down and the remains were razed completely much later when the foundation of the park was laid. The three buildings seen in the painting were the port office, the gear shed and the coal shed. In fact, the Chinese fishing net next to the coal shed is called `Karipura'. Opposite the tower was the Old Harbour Hotel, which housed sailors, and officers who alighted. As the signal station had a tower the road was named Tower Road and remains so till today."

Interesting is the story of the Santa Cruz Basilica which stood behind the present day Laurel Club, one of the three structures seen at the far end of the painting. When the Dutch took over they converted the Basilica into a godown as they were Calvinists. Later, when the British arrived they had to shoot down the godown because the Dutch offered resistance.

The relics, in the form of pillars of the basilica, are found at three places in Fort Kochi. The signal station was the focus of all action, during war and peace. It signalled the coming and the going of traders, merchants and colonisers.

The signal station is no more. At the children's park where it once stood, kids play on swings and slides, their laughter filling the air. Fairy lights and fountains come alive in the evenings; hawkers sell, travellers walk around. There is a strange serenity around this rain tree-lined park.

Quite a contrast, for it was here mutinies rose and fell, fearful exchange of fire shots resounded; the troops marched; merchandise was bartered. It was here that an unseen filtering of culture took place many, many years ago. Now all that exists as memory of this landmark is this forgotten painting on the wall of the Corporation office.

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Kannur St Angelo fort part 2

Kannur St Angelo  fort part 2

Cannanore Fort, a discussion over it's development . (Re posting with special arrangements from Malabar days)

Figure 1. The former palace of the Bibi of Arrakal. [1]

One of the most interesting of the many Indian's who Thomas Baber came into contact with, and one who he evidently had a right regard for, was the Bibi of Arrakal, known today as the Arakkal Beevis.

"The old Beebe of Cananore having written a Petition the other day she wanted me to forward to you, but which I declined, not from any wish to with hold her Petition, but that it appeared more consistent with Propriety in her writing to you herself – Whether she has done so or not I know not, but if she has you will see her case (the Subject is her Lacadive Islands) fairly stated enough and will, I think agree with me that our faith has not been preserved to her – The Court of Directors under the idea that the Islanders were adverse to her Government, were of the opinion that it was not advisable to restore the possession of the Islands to her but that to the consideration in (money?) should be allowed her on account of them – nothing however can be so erroneous as the idea of the accession of the inhabitants to the Government, and it is but reasonable to approve that they would be far better treated by her than a Farmer or even Deputy, removed at such a distance from all control, I don’t know what the advantages are the Company at present derive from these islands, but when the Beebe says (which she has repeated to me) that she will pay the Company as much as ever they received from them, and will hold herself accountable to our Government or our Courts for all her acts, there can be no objection to restoring her to her rights – She has received no compensation, not withstanding the Court of Directors orders, -- Should you view the subject in the light I do, I shall be most happy to afford my personal aid in concluding with the Beebe, (or if necessary making a survey of the Islands themselves) any arrangement that would be most acceptable to Govt for, I am convinced the Old Lady would come into any terms to regain possession of her islands." [2]

Cannanore had been an important international trading port long before the Portuguese arrived off its shores.

A Muslim dynasty based at Cannanore had controlled much of the trade from the Northern Malabar Coast to the Gulf. Following the arrival of the Portuguese who tried to control the coastal trade, this same dynasty had helped to maintain the Indian Arab trade via its Laccadive homelands, circumventing the Portuguese naval blockade by adopting routes away from the Malabar coast.

This redoubtable family was traditionally led by a matriarch called the Beebee (or Bibi) of Arrakal. Although much diminished in status by Thomas Baber's time the Beebee was obviously highly regarded by Thomas, who tried to restore her rights and previous trading business.

The extent of the former trade carried on by the Beebee and her other Muslim trading partners is demonstrated by the following answers given in evidence by Thomas Baber to the House of Lords committee on the 31st March 1830.

When discussing Mopillas... he gave the following evidence when the following questions were posed to him by the members of the committee.

Therefore they invested the Fortunes they have had in Trade?

Yes.

Do they trade much with the Coast of Arabia?

Yes.

With the Persian Gulf?

Yes; with the Red Sea, especially Judda, Aden, Mecca, and Medina, and generally with all the Ports in the Red Sea.
 

Are their Vessels numerous?

They were; but they are not now Half what they were, in consequence of the Monopoly of Timber by the Government, who assumed and declared the Forests to be Royalties, instead of which, those in Malabar have been purchased or inherited in the same Way as every other Description of Landed Property.

Are they unable in consequence to build Vessels?

They were for some Years. I have seen several Applications, both to the Bombay and Madras Governments, requesting Permission to fell Timber themselves, or to purchase Timber of the original Proprietors; which Requests were invariably refused, on the Ground that the Timber was required for Naval Purposes.

Has it been used for such Purposes?

Yes, it has, to a great Extent: but a certain Portion has been sold, chiefly what is called the Refuse, or Second and Third Sorts.

What Description of Wood?

Chiefly Teak and Poon.

Who were the Purchasers of the Timber which was sold, which you call the Refuse Timber?
Arabs, Parsees, and occasionally some of the Inhabitants themselves.

What is the Size of the Vessels?

The Size of the Vessels was from One hundred to Five hundred Tons. I can mention the Names of some of the Ship Owners: the Beebee or Queen of Cananore. This Lady is Queen in her own Right.

How many Vessels has she?

She had previous to the Monopoly Nine; she has now Four or Five. Chowakkara Kunhy Packey, the Heir of old Moossa, a Man well known on the Western Coast, had Twelve; that is, Moossa himself had. These are reduced, I think, to Seven. I can mention their Names and Burthen.

What was the total Number of those Vessels?

At one Time, from Twenty to Thirty of from One hundred to Five hundred Tons Burthen, belonging to the above Two Persons and other Ship Owners; besides which there were other Descriptions of Vessels, such as Botillas, Dows, Dingeys, and Patamars and Munchoos.

Those smaller Vessels carried on the Coasting Trade?

Yes; and some of the largest of them go up to Mocha, Judda and other Places in the Red Sea; also to Muscat, Bushire and Bussora, in the Persian Gulf; Porabunder, Cambay, Cutch, Sind, and a long Way up the Indus.

To what Town on the Indus did those Vessels go; did they go to Hydrabad or Sind?
Yes; I believe they go up so far at least. I have seen Bales of Cashmere Shawls brought amongst the Return Cargoes.

Are you aware whether they have ascended the River of Punjab?

No; I am not aware of any Communication with the Punjab Rivers. They go up the Indus; but I am not aware of their going there further than that. I know that Peishwoor Merchants have come down in Sind Boats.

Trade to a considerable Extent is carried on to Shiccapore, is it not?
No, I am not aware of that.

What are the Articles which are exported in those Vessels to the Red Sea?

Pepper, Cardamums, Rice, Paddy, (or Rice in the Husk,) Grain of all Descriptions, Arrow Root, Ginger, Cocoa Nuts, Kopra, (Kernel of the Cocoa Nut,) Cocoa Nut Oil, and Coir, which is made from the Fibres of the Cocoa Nut. The Value of the Produce of the Cocoa Nut Tree alone, exported from the Western Coast, is supposed to be an Hundred Lacs of Rupees.

From what Ports do those Exportations chiefly take place?
From Cochin, Chowgaut, Panany, Tanore, Perperangady, Beypoor, Calicut or Kohicote, Quilandy, (which is a favourite Arab Port,) Kotah, Barragurry, Mahe, Tellicherry, Cananore, Cavai, Bekklum, Mangalore, Cundapore, Onore, Cumpty, Seedashagur, besides numerous intermediate Ports.

Is Quilandy a good Port?

Yes; there are more of the Arabs congregate there, and more Mosques, than in any other Port on the Coast. The Mopillas here are the fairest of all the Mohamedans.
 
Can Vessels of 700 Tons enter every one of those Ports?

They can approach as near as a Thousand Yards of the Shore with perfect Safety, nearly all along the Coast.

Are they safe in those Ports during the Monsoons?
No; the strongest Vessel that was ever built could not ride out a Malabar Monsoon. One or Two Attempts have been made within my Observation, but they were obliged to go off.

Where do they go to when they are obliged to go off?

To Bombay; some to Cochin, where there is a very fine River.

What are the chief Importations from the Red Sea?
Coffee, Dates, and Gold Dust; Almonds, Kissmisses, (dried Grapes,) Prunes, Gums, Drugs, Perfumes, Elephants Teeth. There are several others which I cannot call to Recollection at this Moment; but chiefly, however, they bring Specie, in Venetians or Sequins and Dollars.

Do you know how far up the Red Sea those Vessels go?
The full Extent of the Red Sea. Very few of the Malabar Vessels go up that length, but they have Agents or Commercial Dealings the whole Way to Suez.

How far do the Vessels go?

To Cosheir, I think.

Have you heard of their being frequently lost?

No; very rarely indeed.

What Time do they occupy in going and returning?

They generally go before the Monsoon, and return after the Monsoon; or rather from January to April, and return from the Beginning of August to January.

From what Part of the Coast of Arabia do the Arabs chiefly come?

Chiefly from Arabia Felix.
 
From any principal Port?

From Aden, Judda, Mocha and Muscat, and all the Ports at the Mouth of the Red Sea.

Is much Trade carried on with Muscat?

A great deal, particularly with the Port of Cochin.

Are you aware whether any great Difficulties were experienced by the Merchants who come down the Indus?

No, I am not aware of any. Pirates were common some Years ago, but they are all destroyed, I believe, now.

The Question applies to the Navigation of the Indus itself?

No, I am not aware of any Impediment. I have often talked to the Sind Merchants whom I have met with at Tellicherry, Calicut, and Mangalore, but I have never been apprized of any particular Difficulties.

What are the Returns from Sind?

Cotton Piece Goods are all I can call to Recollection just now, except Shawls; but chiefly Specie. I think they generally purchase their Return Cargo with Money, which is so valuable to them.[3]

It is very sad that today the ancient palace that the Bibi inhabited and which she was almost certainly visited at by Thomas Baber is now empty and decaying.  A recent article about the palaces fate can be found here..
http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/article3509127.ece



[1] From http://xpsajeevk.blogspot.co.uk/p/about-me.html by Sajeev
[2]Taken from a much longer letter by Thomas Baber to Sir Thomas Munro on the 25th June 1817. OIOC Private Papers IOR:MSS. F151 / 43 folio 50 – 54. to Sir Thomas Munro.
[3]From: British History Online Source: Affairs of the East India Company: Minutes of evidence: 06 April 1830. House of Lords Journal Volume 62. URL: http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.asp?compid=16423 Date: 22/08/2004

Mananathavady In history.

Mananathavady In history.

I came through this book and facilitating  history of our own land.   We had a war between natives and British  right out side of my back yard of house. Exactly at Thazheyangadi  and Pandikkadavu. Manaitody was a very important station at that time.. seems Interesting

In April I was nominated to the command of the Wynaudrangers, formed by droughts of the Serin* gapatam local battalion, on its being disembodied. They were a fine body of men, stanch and well disposed, and soon became intelligent and active, exhibiting always that self-confidence and perseverance so essential to make a good and efficient soldier, and which enable him to act with promptitude when left to his own resources. These qualities are greatly developed and strengthened by the occasional exercise of field sports, as the following circumstances, which I may relate without egotism, will shew.

The collector of Calicut found the police force of Kolcars insufficient to check the smuggling which was carried on to a considerable extent between Mysore and Malabar, by numerous gangs of Mapillas. These free traders set the irregulars at defiance, and introduced vast quantities of contraband tobacco from the Mysore country into Malabar, where they sold it at a great advantage, and a proportionate loss to the revenue. government, as is generally known, retains the sole monopoly of the sale of this article within their own territories. On its way to Malabar, the tobacco passed through the southern parts of Wynaud, where the country is most difficult to be kept under strict observation, on account of its hilly and woody nature.

Application being made to me by Mr. S., the collector, to afford him aid towards the suppression of the illicit trade, I accordingly made the necessary preparations, and selecting eighty men, proceeded in the direction indicated as the most likely to bring me in contact with the freebooters. After a very minute inspection of the localities, I found that the duty I had to perform was a little perplexing. Hills, forests, and thickets, intersected by labyrinths of by-paths and devious tracks, rendered it difficult to select posts of observation. I was forced to divide my party into ten detachments, and with such weak guards to occupy as many different posts. The centre and the two extremities were made the strongest, and were also fixed upon as rallying points according to circumstances. Signals were also preconcerted, that in case of a surprise the detachments would render each other mutual assistance. Some days after we had thus occupied the chain of posts, three parties of smugglers attempted to force their way on our extreme left; they were driven back, but joining together in one body, they renewed the attack. Habituated to watch game in the jungles, and to attend to the signals for uniting strength on a particular point, the rangers not only met but anticipated the attack; they charged the Mapillas, dispersed them after a slight resistance, killed eight, and took thirty-six prisoners. Sixty bales of tobacco were the prize of our success.



This mishap taught the smugglers caution; they made a fresh attempt to cross our lines, and it was only by exercising the stratagems used against a herd of deer, that they were baffled. The rangers hid themselves in the thickets, and gave no signs of their presence until the Mapillas and their goods were in the centre of the lines. At the moment the smugglers believed themselves most secure,. they beheld themselves so commanded by the rangers, that they could neither advance nor retreat; they were forced to surrender at discretion, and all their contraband goods were taken.

Mananthavady-New finding of old drawing.

Manintoddy

If you have ever wondered about the history of your local town, village or street? through investigating the past, you may reveal yourself. We always thought and ignored our Wayanad is a little piece of land which has no important role in history. And we never thought our town has its name in any history books. My studies in local history have given me a deeper understanding of history in general and also instilled in me a different way of thinking about people who lived in past times. Placing yourself in other people’s shoes and thinking deeply about their lives can provide you with a different aspect in considering people in today’s world. I have also enjoyed other people's views who are interested in our local history

Actually, Wayanad has, from the earliest days of European settlement, or before, been distinguished by its multicultural nature. There is evidence of prehistoric settlements in Wayanad. Inscriptions in Edakkal cave and some other parts in Thovary mala confirms this. I believe lots of evidence and inscriptions could have been lost during migrated plantation cultivation which occurred in 1940 to 1970s. it was not a land of aboriginals now Malayalee settlements of the area commenced before the British invaded us. .Migration has been paramount in the history of Mananthavady. Each wave of migration has added to its character. The peak of migration occurred from the 1950s to the late 1970s when very large numbers of migrants arrived from southern Kerala, Kannur, Calicut Districts, The area has continued to become a new home to a diverse array of cultural groups and you can observe every kind of these groups in Wayanad, not like other parts of Kerala.

The mananthavady-new finding of an old drawing.

1839 watercolor drawing taken from the personal collection of Mr. Narayan Swami, Titled "View from the Officers' Canteen, Manantoddy, 12th Jan 1839" as inscribed on the verso f the painting. Size 12 x 9 Inches. As you can see, the drawing has been cut in the left-hand corner and some added brushwork of poor quality (the eaves of the roof and the wood columns supporting them) can be seen, added obviously at a later date. It is clear from this unnecessary brushwork (probably added by the Lithographer when discussing the matter with the artist) that this view was considered for the lithographic issue but the idea abandoned, perhaps because it was decided that views of the Nilgiris only were to be published.

From Our FB page

രണ്ടു നൂറ്റാണ്ട് മുൻപ്, ഫോട്ടോയോ മറ്റു ഉപകരണങ്ങളോ കണ്ടുപിടിക്കുന്നതിനും മുന്പ് മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽ ഏരിയ എങ്ങിനെ ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നു എന്ന് അറിയുന്നത് കൗതുകകരം ആയിരിക്കും. അന്ന് പെൻസിൽ,വാട്ടർ കളർ ചിത്രങ്ങളിലൂടെ ആയിരുന്നു നമ്മുടെ നാടിനെ മറുനാട്ടുകാർ നോക്കിക്കണ്ടിരുന്നത്. അത്തരത്തിൽ വളരെ പ്രാധാന്യം ഏറിയ ഒരു ചിത്രലേഖനം ആണിത്. മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽസിന്റെ നിരീക്ഷണത്തിൽ ബ്രിട്ടീഷ്‌ സേനാൻഗം ആയ Edward Archdall McCurdy (1797 - 1842) മാനന്തവാടിയിലെ ഏതോ കെട്ടിടത്തിൽ നിന്നും 1839 ൽ വരച്ച ഈ ചിത്രം ഇതുവരെ കിട്ടിയിട്ടുള്ളതിൽ വച്ച് ഏറ്റവും പഴക്കം ഏറിയതാണ്.ആ കാലഘട്ടത്തിൽ വയനാടിന്റെ തലസ്ഥാനം ആയിരുന്ന മാനന്തവാടിയുടെ ഈ ചിത്രത്തിന് സമാനമായത് എന്ന് പറയാവുന്നത് തലശ്ശേരി, കോഴിക്കോട് എന്നിവിടങ്ങൾ നിന്നുള്ള രേഖാ ചിത്രങ്ങൾ മാത്രമാണ്. ഇതുവരെ ഇംഗ്ലണ്ട് ൽ പ്രസിദ്ധീകരിക്കപ്പെടാതെ പോയ ഈ ചിത്രം ചെന്നൈയിൽ ഉള്ള Mr. Narayan Swami യുടെ സ്വകാര്യ ശേഖരത്തിൽ ഉള്ളതാണ്. മാനന്തവാടിയുടെ ചരിത്രത്തിൽ ഈ ചിത്രത്തിന് ഒരു സ്ഥാനം ഉണ്ടാവാൻ പോകുന്നു. മാനന്തവാടി ലോക്കൽസ് സംശയിക്കുന്ന സ്ഥലങ്ങൾ : ആശുപത്രി കുന്ന് , താലൂക്ക് ഓഫീസ്, LFUP hill , ലാറ്റിൻ church എന്നിവയാണ്.

The location of this image, as it holds an important role in History of our Mananthavady. This is 1839 water colour drawing taken from personal collection of Mr. Narayan Swami,Titled "View from the Officers' Canteen, 12th Jan 1839" as inscribed on the verso f the painting. Mananthavady is a modern name of the town and taluk which spelt differently at different times: Manintoddy,Manantoddy, Manantodi, Manthaady, Maha Anandavady, etc. Mananthavady has been referred to as "Hosenkadi" in a dictum scribbled under a copper artifact found at the Ananthanathaswamy Temple at Varadoor. Presence of Jain Community and Ananthaswamy temple at Pandikkadavu make this nomenclature as a site of Maha Anantha Vadi. But the dominant view on the etymology is that the word is derived from "Mane Eytha Vady (The place where an arrow was shot at the deer)".

Manantoddy was HQ of Wynuad Rangers,

Wynaud (now WAYANAD) in Kerala is the hill range contiguous to the Nilgiris and Manantoddy(now MANANTHAVADY) was the base of the Wynuad Rangers, a detachment of the Madras Army stationed there to watch the borders with Mysore state in the time of Hyder Ali and Tippoo. Later, the Rangers continued to be stationed there to contain Moplah insurrection.

Manantoddy (MANANTHAVADY) was the base of the famous Wynaud Rangers, led by Maj Henry Bevan. The detachment was initially established to police the borders with Tipoo and later to maintain law and order in the context of Moplah uprisings from time to time.

Manantoddy watercolour, a sectional view showing the depth and perspective achieved (note the human figures in the hollow below the house). These guys had good training in surveying in those days!

The Manantoddy watercolor photoshopped for V Narayan Swami by Dr John Roberts (and stripped of the latter-day overlays of roofing and supporting columns). This is more or less how the original painting should have looked (and also approximates its aspect had the lithographing been carried out).

The inscription at the back of the Manantoddy water colour.V Narayan Swami was able to establish that it is in McCurdy's handwriting 

As Mananthavady Locals could not establish the location same scenery till now from an accurate location, a possible view from the government Sub-registrar office at Mananthavady. I strongly suspect the background hill is Brahmagiri hills, assuming the shapes.

Photo of present Hospital Hill. check the building in its top. It was certainly used by the British. 

The Nilgiri Wynad of E A McCurdy, Compulsive Landscape Artist

Edward Archdall McCurdy (1797 - 1842), a Captain and later Lt Colonel in the 27th Native Infantry of the Madras Army, published "Views of the Nielgherries, or Blue Mountains of Coimbetoor, Southern India" (no date but c.1830 - 40), a set of 5 lithographs of the Blue Mountains. This is a very rare set, seldom seen at auctions.

McCurdy's original watercolours of the Nilgiri &Wynad, the range of hills to the west of and adjoining the Nilgiris (mostly today's in Kerala state). The Nilgiri Wynad is but a day's march or less from Ootacamund and clearly McCurdy was there at least in 1839, if not more than once.

The first picture is a watercolour shows a view from the Officers' Canteen in Manantoddy (Manantawadi today) in the Wynad. Manantoddy and the Wynad were the base for the Wynaud Rangers headed by Major Henry Bevan (until a few years before 1839) who has written a book on his sporting adventures in the area :http://books.google.co.in/books… At the time this watercolour was drawn, 1839, McCurdy's regiment was stationed in Bangalore. And, clearly, he liked to holiday and sketch in the Nilgiris and the Wynad, places only a few days march from Bangalore.

You can see that the drawing has been cut in to two pieces (possibly with a view to have the reduced drawing lithographed but the idea was no doubt abandoned as I am not aware of any such published litho).

The inscription at the back is the next, 2nd, picture and it matches with a known sample of McCurdy's handwriting (the 4th picture).

But it is the style of the drawing which is conclusive for the attribution. The 5th picture below is a scan of one of the published Nilgiri lithographs.The similarity in styles between the watercolours and the litho will be apparent even though the print medium tends to efface most if not all of the flourish and individuality of the hand-drawn master drawing. So, conclusively, a watercolor by Mc Curdy with matching handwriting.

Please note the sunlit, sun-dappled effect on the rolling hills in both the paintings, seemingly a signature McCurdy effect. His sketching abilities, as you can see, were nothing to write home about, but his surveying skills are evident in the perspective and depth he brings to the drawings. And his control over the medium of watercolour is excellent.

Some starting lines of a chapter of the book 30 years in India by Maj Henry Bevan. The 1830s

Lieutenants D. and N. being on a visit to me at Manintoddy, were anxious to see deer shooting. I gladly consented to gratify their inclinations, and started for the Tinevelly forest, about eight miles off. We had tolerable success in the mornings and evenings, at which time the deer quit their thick and impervious coverts, to feed on a shrub that grows in these jungles: it bears a sort of gooseberry .of which they are very fond; and the localities in which these shrubs abound, are their favourite resorts. 

Thirunelli  Temple

Located 22 km from Mananthavady

I may here relate an instance of the credulity of the natives ofWynaud. A most extraordinary panic prevailed for about ten days in the neighbourhood of Manintoddy, which caused a temporary scarcity of provisions, At one of the Hindoo temples near Manintoddy.

I saw tried the power of the Wynaud bow on many occasions, and I will here give an instance of its efficiency. A poor cultivator who resided close to Manintoddy, lost one of the buffaloes he used in his plough. And this was to him a severe misfortune, for his team was the principal support of him self and his family. He knew that the tiger which had killed it would come at night to prey on the carcass, and he, therefore, lay in wait behind a small screen within a few yards of the carcass. The tiger came as he expected; he discharged his arrow at the beast, and so correct was his aim, and such the strength of his arm, that the arrow pierced to the tiger's heart. He told us that the beast when struck, bounded high in the air and fell dead on of his victim. For this feat, he received the usual allowance of 30 rupees,, which enabled him to buy two othe rbuffaIoes--a reward he nobly earned. 

More on this book will be discussed in a later blog.

Other posts related to  Wayanad in this blog

KALLI VALLI : My town Mananthavady

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Man and Machine trip -day 1 Calicut - Mananthavady

Man and Machine  trip -day 1 Calicut - Mananthavady

The planning 

Days and days of searching in net given a clear-cut idea of the routes. Moreover, Kenneth Anderson Facebook group and its old posts gave inspiration for the trip. I asked Mr Joshua and Karkala Jayaraman about the area and routes and they prompted me wisely. 

Going on a long road journey on a two-wheeler was never my cup of tea.

It was planned as a car trip with the family, to Mysore, Kabani, Nager hole and Hogenekal falls as added attractions for kids.  But things are turned to a 6 day trip to alone in a motorbike.

It was after more than two weeks we landed at Calicut, Wife wanted to stay with their parents at Kannur, or more than a week's period. I agreed on the same as per the mutual understanding. They were tired after the Revisiting Kerala trip which lasts for one week. Also just before we went to an amusement park and shed all the energy there in the water pools. 

The actual route, for 6 days.

So being alone, suddenly I thought about the trip and as thoughts revamping, I decided to go. Alone, yes in a bike. It will be easier to go through the dense jungles, and I wanted to go some off reading to explore KA"s place. All the plans are changed. No Family No car, No tent. I was looking for a bike; I could get a bullet or my old Yezdi Classic. Both are not good for a long trip as I knew, especially if somebody dares for a lone trip. Actually, I made a ride to Mysore to restore my Yezdi last week, and it is good in working condition. But if in case of a starting trouble occurs in the middle of nowhere I will be swapped. Looking around I find the old man.

Old Victor used for the first phase

My second bike in my life my 10-year-old friend, TVS victor was there in the garage. It's in poor condition and handicapped, no service is done for the past few years and no proper care is given to it. Anyway, I took him out, filled petrol and checked. Running. Ok, it will be enough to Wayanad on this bike than in a car. The traffic in Kerala is always boring, but on the bike, it's quite awesome and adventurous too. 

New Honda unicorn, just 450 km clocked.

As for the accessories, have a tent and sleeping bags, but it's in Kannur, Camera also there. For riding gear almost I have nothing that a helmet and a police cooling glass, even I missed my gloves. Still, as determined I thought I can have it from Mananthavady, where is my haven. I thought my Samsung S5 with its 16 mp camera is just enough to take the snaps. It will also supplement as providing GPS and Google maps. I took two power banks to charge the phone but never used in the trip. Because I put my S5 in ultra power saving mode whenever not in use. 

Now I have a backpack with all the accessories and dress, I took two sets of rain suits. I always do this in rainy rides, wearing one over one and then only in heavy rain, you can ride without fearing the tickle sensation of cold drops of rain oozing through the small holes of the zipper. 

DAY 1. Calicut - Mananthavady

I started to visit the nearby temples as per my plan I got some pictures of some buildings, places, temples and churches in and around Malabar dated back to 1900 and before. I went personally to the places and comparing the present situations. You may refer the blog posts for the details. 

Puthoor temple

Front view of Bhagavati Temple, Elatur, Calicut taluk, Malabar district Photographer: Archaeological Survey of India | Date: [1900] ; 1900-01 Source: British Library

This time, I went to Puthoor temple and confirmed the location. Luckily I got somebody to speak with in detail. The temple is still under Zamorins, but not knows widely like Guruvayoor temple or Thali temple. The actual place is called Puthiyangadi, near to Pavangad, Calicut. Later, after talking to some local people, I learnt that Elathur was a vast land, not a mere town Renovation is taking place and some of the land beside Temple has been lost. Any way the old structure with its all glory has been undisturbed and well preserved. 

Varakkal Devi temple

Next, I ride to Varakkal Devi temple, and from outside I examined it well and again confirmed its location. Here also Zamorins is in supreme power and he decides the temple committee to govern. The old photo was taken before the railway line constructed and I assume the photo taken from a point presently on the railway track. 

1901 photo of Baghavati  temple, Varakkal

More and more trees and vegetation is around if you observe closely' the little trees are still there on both sides of the steps. I don't know it is the same trees after more than 115 years. I read it's possible for banyan trees. 

Taken in an attempt to click at the same point as per the old picture. The tank as in the first photo is now partially filled with railway tracks and the half is now in this state as in the right side of the road. you can see the steps also. 

Vishnu Temple at Perumanna

My next destination is Perumanna, a small town lying at the banks of Chaliyar, about 15 km west to Calicut. Ride in the heavy traffic to Medical College, and met my old friends, still working there. Bhadran, Zubair, and Rajeevan were curious about my trip. Sanjayan sir is given a huge hug as I met them after 7 years. From outside the Hospital, I also met my beloved professor, Rajan sir. After long conservation, asked why I wear this kind of dress. Then only I looked myself. With my military green shirt and jacket with the same colour cargo trousers, I looked like a wildlife photographer rejoiced my mind. Had lunch at the old hostel, with the same tastes of curries, brought me the remembrance of the olden days. Surprisingly, they maintain the same menu still. 

Kuttikattor has changed a lot, now a hub of furniture shops all around, was a timid village like a calm town with greenery all around when I stayed there. I searched for my old friend and our old lab, but it also been demolished in a process of renewal. From Poovattuparamb I took a right turn and soon heard a loud noise from the rear of the bike, only to stop suddenly and found victor lost its temper and slipped the chain from the sprocket. Luckily I was moving slowly. No harm. But I could not make it up again, as I found no tools in the bike. Slowly I pushed him to the nearest workshop and the mechanic advised me to change the chain and sprocket immediately. Spent some time around by having a tea and within half an hour hit the road again. 

Perumanna was well known to me but the old temple was not. It had a lot of stories to tell to the new generation. I think a post separately on this. Perumanna is a beautiful location, in the outskirts of Calicut. It can be reached easily via the Mankavu or Mavoor route. 

This serene, calm, beautiful village was a terrific mix of adventure and relaxation to me. 

There is an ancient temple nearby, with a lot of history attached to it. It was invaded, looted...and has faced the wrath of time. The main deities Shiva and Vishnu stand overlooking their subjects, the people of Perumanna. 

Anyway, I got some snaps of the temple even it was closed during this hour. Some of the boys from the neighbourhood helped me to open the temple to take a snap. The main deities here are Vichy and Siva both in equal importance. But in the old picture, it is described as only Vishnu temple of Perumanna. This confusion has gone when I see the round shaped sanctum sanctorum of the Vishnu temple. I assumed the old photo has been taken from the tall compound wall of the temples. It has a peculiar shape of elephant belly I and never seen it somewhere else. 

Vishnu Temple at Perumanna in the Kozhikode district of Kerala, taken by a photographer of the Archaeological Survey of India on the 1st February 1901.Source: British Library 

This is a complex of Shiva and Vishnu Temple and is almost ruined by Tippu. The Krishna's statue does not have hand in the main sanctum. The entire complex is double in size of Guruvayoor temple and never got proper recognition that it deserves!

Mavoor 

I took an easy way to Cheroopa and then Headed towards Mavoor. Pass by Cheroopa Public Health Centre east on Mavoor Rd/Pipe Line Rd toward Mavoor Kettangal Rd

Description: Photograph of the south view of Shiva Temple at Kunniparamba, Calicut taluk, Malabar district, taken by a photographer for Archaeological Survey of India around 1900

 Shiva  and Vishnu temple at Kunniparamba, as of today

After an extensive and thorough search, I found this temple situated Near Mavoor, after Cheroopa, Thengilakadavu-kanniparamb road. The location is given below by Google and Bing maps. 

In the second volume of his work 'Malabar' of 1887, William Logan wrote about this temple, "In Kanniparamba amsam, there is a temple dedicated to Siva, Vishnu, Ganapati, Ayyapan and Dakshinamurti. It is 132 feet square. It is a very ancient temple so much so that it is fabled to have been founded by Kannwa Rishi commemorated in the Maha Bharata." 

I talked to some local people, but they seem ignorant of the historical importance of this temple. I think it is a Muslim dominated area in the surroundings. 

Google map  view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba 

South view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba, Calicut taluk, Malabar district Date of creation: 1900-01, Source British Library

view of Krishnamurti Shrine, Kunniparamba

Wayanad Ghats

I selected a route to Koduvally through interior Calicut district, under coconut palms everywhere, through the villages. This is to avoid heavy traffic in NH. Green is the primary colour wherever you look into, and the road leads me to NIT Calicut and then to Koduvally. From there NH 212 to Kollegal joined and the ride was non-event full 

I am a regular traveller on this route, every 2 weeks or so we were travelling through the famous Wayanad Ghats. So it was not much attractive to me, even though more and more vehicles and tourists pass daily on this picture ghat road. From Adivaram town, take a left turn, a pocket road, and it will save 4km of you. If you are interested in a change in the boring first and second hairpin bend, I advise you to take this route. The road is narrow but smooth and traffic less, it will join at a 4th hairpin bend. 

Lots of people told about the mist and cold of Wayanad ghat and I do not want to repeat about the pleasure it gives each time. 

Normally we prefer Vythiri- Tharuvana 4thmile route to Mananthavady. Which is in perfect condition for a weekend drive? A lot of beautiful spots around the road, mingled with forest, and a smooth road with less traffic and fewer kilometres. But this time Kalpetta bypass is newly opened, and I want to test the route. Byepass is not much good as expected, single lane only, and within 5 years it should be upgraded. 

Mananthavady is not far, 35 km away, and can reach there within 45 minutes. The rain started to drizzle but within minutes it transforms into a heavy pour. Drenched outside, my double layer jacket given comfort riding. It's a cosy feeling when the entire world is in wet and cold, you only riding with little heat in the chest. Slowly I reached Mananthavady I took Slight right at Kaithakkal Juma Masjid onto Mananthavady-Koyileri-Panamaram Rd and Pass by Vaderi Shiva Temple and Valliyoorkavu temple.

Mananthavady

Gandhi Park, Centre of town at  Mananathavady

Alternate Name: Manantoddy, Mananthody, Manthady, Mananthavadi, North Wayanad, Melangadi, and Hosengadi. Malayalam is the language, but Tamil and Kannada are widely accepted, along with tribal languages. Hindi and English also can be used without much trouble.

Mananthavady has been referred to as "Hosenkadi" in a dictum scribbled under a copper artefact found at the Ananthanathaswamy Temple at Varadoor. The dominant view on the etymology is that the word is derived from "Mane Eytha Vady (The place where an arrow was shot at the deer)". This view is strengthened by the existence of a place called Ambukuthy, literally the location where the arrow pierced, on the outskirts of the town.

This area was once ruled by the Pazhassi dynasty and the tomb of Pazhassi Raja is an important heritage site located in the heart of the town. Mananthavady was a major army camp for the British during their campaign against Pazhassi. One can still see the vestiges of the colonial period - canteen, club, barracks, rest house, cemetery - around Mananthavady. 

The red circle is Ib of Manantoddy and the blue circle was the fort and its cemetery, now Latin Church

Relations of old and new photo. Compare the difference. The marks may help you. click images for larger view

1901 photo of Convent hill, Mananthavady

The most conspicuous of them is at the town and post of Manantody മാനന്തവാടി .The cantonment at this place on a low flat hill (ലത്തീൻ പള്ളി ഏരിയ)consists of a small redoubt an artillery shed, താലൂക്ക് ഓഫീസ് കുന്ന്, a range of officers quarters (NGO QUARTERS) , place of arms പഴയ പോലീസ് സ്റ്റേഷൻ , hospital etc. There is an upper roomed house here used as a cutcherry now falling to decay.

Took a night rest at Mananthavady. The night was too long as I thought about the sighting of a wild tiger on the same route, only a week ago, and hoping to see him again. That meeting was like this:

First Tiger sighting in Life

That was a rainy evening. My Yezdi bike needed restoration and in a group of 3 bikes, we made a ride to  Mysore. We were returning from Mysore and did a speedy ride to reach the forest gate which will close at 6.pm.we are the last few ones cross the Check post that day. It was usual to see some elephants in Bavali forest and that day we found wild guars also with the elephant herd. When we reached About 8 kilometres to Bavali, there is a bridge and its left side we saw him. I was riding as a pillion. Akhil said look there is a Puli inside bushes. He stopped the bike just in front of the bushes. I didn't see anything. In Malayalam Puli denotes mostly of panthers. Kaduva makes correct meaning of tiger. About 6 months ago we saw a leopard in the same area and I thought it may be the same one. Akhil pushed back the bike without switch off the engine. I could see him in a little clearing between the bushes.only to see the king of the jungle in a pool of water.

In wilderness in the first time of my life, I said it's a huge tiger. He is looking at directly about 30 meters away in the bank of a small stream. The half-crouching position he met our eyes and he exclaimed too. We too were in a tensed mood for a couple of minutes. His coat and colour were not too bright and not neat. So I assumed that it is an old one. We never heard any growl or calling and maybe he stopped in between an attempt to cross the road and we interrupted. After about 1 minute in the clearing, he drew himself in a small bush near the pond.

He didn't jump over the stream and gone the other side. We can still see his back in leafy background. We waited full 5 minutes in starting position and about to leave him alone cars came from the opposite road and the family has also seen him and making huge noises. Now the tiger is Later one more car came and the youths dared to come out of the car and speaking loudly. The situation is not in favour both of us and the tiger and I lied that he has gone to the forest already after they left we decided to leave him alone in his home. .Just before our start, we saw him one more time, as he jumps to the opposite side of the stream.  Photo was taken by My friend Mashood Mint.

Machur .On Bavali HD Kote road

We were riding through Bavali forest with mixed feelings and little fear of meeting other animals in this dusk. We met 3 elephants small in size were staying calmly at undergrowth of high trees... We stopped for a tea at the village junction on Machur and from there we met our Co-riders. We learned. That this particular old tiger selected the area as his new territory and locals villagers are in fear of him... He occasionally lifts cattle and not afraid of human presence. I remembered the stories of old tigers with cases of cattle lifts can become man-eater. On the tea shop, everybody advised not to go alone. Our teammates never have seen the tiger. After hearing our story they told they had actually lost balance when they saw the elephant in front of them in the middle of the road and fell down. Both of them had minor injuries... I suggested to change the bike riders and continued the trip. 

The night passed and after freshening up I am ready to go. By this time, Akhil had bought a brand new Honda unicorn as that was his dream machine. It has a disc brake and self-start, the most helpful things I ever needed. It just clocked 450 kilometers. I got, a new companion for the trip, I thought. Next day morning I didn't say to him that I am going for a long trip, obviously, he may not agree and my plan will be spoiled. I told as I  wanted to visit some friends, borrow me your bike, and keep the old Victor for you. And within 10 minutes I hit the road to Mysore.

Read In my next post related to Mananthavady:

I never knew that immediately after Kerala border we will be entering the Kakana Kote forests, before reading the book Tiger roars written by Kenneth Anderson. He described the geography very well and accurate. In his story, The killer of the  Wayanad, Manantoddy, Kakkankote and Tholpetty forest are involved.

The essence of The Killer of the Wynaad

A tiger turns to man-eating in the jungle of Wynaad, Manantoddy. Anderson takes up the challenge to find it. The tiger killed a man in Mananthavady town limit, then continue to take lives on Kabani riverside and Bavali forest. Anderson describes the Kheddah operation of  Kakankote and geography of wayanad in detail.  Whilst staying in a local village the tiger pulls a sleeping man out from under his hut and makes off with him into the forest. Anderson and his friend track the tiger and soon find the meager human remains in a grassland area. With no trees within shooting distance, Anderson and his friend face a terrifying night sat back to back in the long grass as they await the man-eaters return.

Links to other blogposts related to Kennath Anderson stories:

The Man-eater-of-crescent-mountains

Killer-from Hyderabad WB

The-black-panther-of-sivanipalli-

Kankanhalli-town-with-that-alliterative.

Bailurman-and-machine-trip-part-12

Biligundlu-man-and-machine-trip-part.10

Hogenakkalman-and-machine-trip-part-9

Panapatti-man-and-machine-trip-part-8

Kempekaraiman-and-machine-trip-part-7

Gerattiman-and-machine-trip-part-6.

Around-anchettyman-and-machine-5

spotted-devil-of-gummalapur-4

man-and-machine-trip-3-

the-killer-of-wayanad- 2

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