History of Thirunelli
There is only limited historic and archaeological information on the place. It is said that Thirunelli was an important town and pilgrim centre till the16th century. Some earlier Malayalam works of 11th and 12th century like Unniyachi Champu, has references to the place. Archaeologists have also discovered copper plate inscriptions belonging to the period of Bhaskara Ravi Varma I and II (10th and 11th century) from the village. The Malabar Manuel, written by William Logan too has mentions on the place. While laying roads to the place, it is said that, people got coins which dated back to 9th and 10th centuries, indicating the importance of the place during the reign of Kulasekhara. All these facts show that Thirunelli was an important town and pilgrim centre in north Kerala for centuries.
Legend behind the temple
There is no recorded history on the origin of the temple, but it is believed that the temple is more than 1000 years old. There are many legends and stories associated with it. Though they do not have evidences, they are fascinating.
The temple is believed to have been built by Lord Brahma. He was travelling round the earth upon a swan and noticed the enchanting beauty of the Brahmagiri Hills. He descended on the spot and found an idol of Vishnu under an Amla tree. He installed the idol there and called the temple Sahyamalaka temple. Lord Vishnu, as per the request of Lord Brahma, made the waters of the area also sacred and blessed it with the capability to wash away all sins. Hence, the river there is known as Papanashini, meaning the stream that washes away all sins. According to some other legends, the King of Birds, Garuda, was flying with Amritakumbha, (the pot of Amrut, the nectar of life) above Thirunelli when Lord Brahma was consecrating Vishnu’s idol. Garuda circled over the place and a few drops of Amrut fell into the stream nearby, thus making the Papanasini to attain the power for purifying sins.
People believe that Lord Brahma worships Perumal in the temple on the wee hours every day, hence the head priest of the temple leaves a fresh quantity of worshiping materials required for pooja in the temple before closing the temple at night.
The name of the place too is derived from this legend – Thirunelli means the holy gooseberry in Malayalam.
The reference to the Sahyamalaka temple, in the picturesque Sahya Valley can be seen in many ancient Puranas and Hindu texts too. Legends say that Parasurama, the incarnation of Lord Vishnu visited Thirunelli and performed last rites for his dead father, sage Jamadagni. It is also believed that he took a dip in Papanasini to atone for his sin of killing Kshathriyas.
Papanasini and spectacular views
The temple surrounded by mountains, hidden in dense wood, provides a refreshing view of nature. It faces east and a view of sunrise from here is fascinating. The Brahmagiri range with its shades of green on the north, the greenery of Karimala and Narinirangimala on the west and south respectively adds to the mystic nature of the temple.
Papanasini, the mountain stream emanating from the heart of Brahmagiri is about 1 km away from the temple. Panchatheertham is the temple pond seen on the temple premises. There is a boulder with the image of a footprint in the middle of the pond and it is called Vishnupada (footprint of Lord Vishnu).
The temple is a fine piece of architectural wonder of yore. There are 30 granite pieces supporting the shrine and the floor is also paved with huge square granite blocks.
The temple also carries some characteristics of typical Kerala architecture such as tile roofed structure of the inner sanctorum, the open courtyard around the sanctorum, the granite lamppost at the entrance etc. The temple also has a narrow corridor (Vilakkumaadam) which is constructed of granite pillars, though they are incomplete on the eastern side.
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| TIRUNELLI TEMPLE 1911 |
TIRUNELLI TEMPLE LEGEND
this Temple is described in Stalapuranam. as
The
village was granted with God Vishnu
(Devadeves'an),
his shrine, its revenues, and power to protect and punish, to the eminent
Brahmins of two different families and this grant was made by pouring water
into their hands as signifying transfer of proprietorship.
The village referred
to is Amalaka gramam, and the temple, the Amalaka kshetram or Tirunelli temple,
as it is known in Malabar, and the grant was made by Brahmadeva under the
following circumstances to the Brahmins who were first appointed as its priests
and proprietors.
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TIRUNELLI TEMPLE 2011
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On the summit of the Brahmagiri mountain, Brahmadeva performed
yagain (sacrifice) and there Vishnu with four hands bedecked with numerous fine
jewels, seated on an Amalaka tree appeared before him. The figure however
suddenly vanished. Brahmadeva then founded a temple at the spot dedicating the
same to Vishnu and gave it the name of Amalaka kshetram or Tirunelli temple
(Tiru sacred, Nelli gooseberry tree). Brahmins were appointed priests to whom
the temple was entrusted as also the small village that sprung about it, relics
of which still exist in the shape of old foundations of houses.Brahmadeva
departed but visits the temple every night to worship Vishnu.
The pujai
(worship) in every shrine closes ordinarily at about 9 to 10 P.M. and in this
shrine, where the ordinary puja is done five times, from morning till 10 P.M.
the priest prepares for
a sixth puja before leaving the place. On opening the doors next morning he
finds that all the materials for the puja have been utilised during the night.
It was Brahmadeva who performed the sixth puja and
this has been going on every day and will go on for ever. The priest before
entering the temple in the morning swears thrice that he will not divulge what
he sees there on opening the door, and no priest dare give out the secret at
the risk of being bitten by cobras emanating from the shrine. Whatever the
present generation may think of a superhuman agency performing an unusual sixth
puja in this shrine, the
fact
remains that it is arranged for every night in the belief that Brahmadeva
visits the temple and worships Vishnu. As already mentioned Brahmadeva
appointedBrahmins as priests : but nothing is known as to how they or the
gramam disappeared. There is a long blank in the history of the temple and a
Sannyasi, who in this wilderness took up his residence in the deserted temple
had an inspiration in obedience to which he brought down four Bmbrandiri
Brahmins from Gokarnam (Canara) to take charge of the temple.
The puja was naturally neglected during the Mysore invasion but subsequently
the Sannyasi known as Samiyar returned. He found one of the Embrandiris
returning with another person, who was the ancestor of the present Uralers
(trustees). To them the Sannyasi handed over the temple, the Bmbrandiri to
perform the puja and the other individual to manage the affairs. Subsequently
the manager claimed proprietorship and succeeded in establishing his right.
His
family was divided into north and south branches, represented by Vatakku
Moothannan, and Thekku Moothannan, the present
(Uralers) trustees of the temple. The junior members in their familiesare known
as Elayannan and Kunjannan. They claim kinship with the Musads of Malabar and
follow their customs and manners as in Malabar proper, the name Moothannan
being composed of Moothathu (i.e., Musad) and Annan, evidently a courtesy title
common in Coorg which province adjoins Tirunelli amsam. The idol is of granite
stone and is said to be of excellent workmanship. After destruction by fire
during Tippu's invasion the temple was first reconstructed with thatched roofs.
The Srikovil (central shrine) has since been roofed with copper and surmounted
by a golden spire. The ground in and out of the temple is paved with granite
stones. Shrines and sacred springs surround the temple and a brief description
of the same is extracted below from the Malabar Gazetteer. " At the back
of the temple a stream of clear water comes tumbling down from the hill-side in
a succession of pools and cataracts, and many of these pools are holy.
Their
names are Papanasini, the extinguisherof sins, Panchatirtam, Rinamochinitirtam,
Qiwnik-atirtam, Satavinnu, Sahasravinmi and Varaham.
The water of the last is
brought for temple use in a stone aqueduct half a mile long. The water of
Papanasini falls on a rock called Pinnapara where offerings to the spirits of
the departed are made.
This rock is a bone of an Asuran or demon, named
Pashana-bhedi, slain by Vishnu,
whose body was at his own prayer converted into a rock extending from Tirunelli
to Gaya, Tirunelli representing his foot, Godaveri his middle, Gaya the head.
Just
by Gunnikatirtam is a small cave temple dedicated to Siva
Besides the
above, there is the Pakshipashanam (lit., bird-rock)
called"garudappara" (Garudan's rock) beneath
which are found several
interesting caves known as Pathalam (nether world) where hermits in the ancient
days lived and which as the story goes, were visited by Mr. Baber, Sub-
Collector of Northern Division, Malabar, in the beginning of the nineteenth
century.
He met the hermits and built a flight of steps for them to climb up to
their caves,the cement used being still visible in parts.
The Bavali river
deserves mention as derived from Vari water and Avail collection collection of
waters the right name of the river being Varavali. The junction of Nanda stream
with the Bavali is known as Nandabavali Sangamam and is a sacred spot where low
castes who are not allowed to enter the temple make their offerings.
On the
eastern side of Grunnika temple is a rock
on which Sudras perform funeral rites on the forty-first day after the death of
their relatives.
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The Punarjanini (re-birth) has a sacred function attached to
it. This is a cave in the rock with opening two sides, and any person who
is stuck midway in attempting to pass through is considered a sinner, and his
way of escape out of the difficulty is by praying to God Vishnu when he could
retreat.
It is only one free from sins, and sincerely devout, who need attempt
to pass through scatheless. The above is a brief notice of the famous Tirunelli
shrine "the resort of many a pious Hindu under the promise of remission of
sins and eternal bliss". Its sanctity, antiquity and divine origin have
never been disputed by Hindus and it is a matter of regret that the two copper
plates preserved in the temple and the inscription on the granite wall could
never be deciphered as those would have given a clearer idea as to the origin
and history of this famous shrine. As it is, one has to depend on the "
Stalapuranam "(local legends) for information and this is given here as
succinctly as possible.
Other posts related to Wayanad in this blog
The Cannanore Lighthouse near the Sea View Park is another place of interest. The first lighthouse at Kannur was built at St. Angelo Fort in, a system of hoisting a lantern with an oil wick lamp was introduced in 1843 by the British . A masonry pedestal was constructed in 1903 on the rampart of the fort and a double wick oil lamp inside the 4th order dioptric lens and lantern with arrangement for occultation was placed on this pedestal. The light was shifted in 1939 on to a 16 metre steel trestle erected on the northern bastion of the Fort. The steel trestle can still be seen today at the Fort.The light was made available during fair seasons only, from September to May every year.Over the years, the lighthouse was renovated by a flashing light with 10 second character running on DA gas in 1948 and it was moved to its current location. This light remained in operation till the new lighthouse tower was constructed at the present location during 1975-76.The lighthouse is still in use.
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