Day 2 Mananthavady to Mandya.
The next morning, after a slow start, I got myself ready and felt refreshed. There it was, Akhil's dream machine right in front of me. I decided not to mention that I was planning a long trip, knowing he might not be on board and that could ruin my plans. Instead, I casually asked if I could borrow his bike to visit some friends. Within just 10 minutes, I was on my way to Bavali.
The road till Bavali check post is too good surrounded by dense forest on both the side
I had no idea that just after crossing the Kerala border, we would find ourselves in the Kakana Kote forests until I read Kenneth Anderson's book, Tiger Roars. He does a fantastic job of describing the geography in a clear and precise manner. His tale about the man-eater from Wayanad includes the Kakkankote and Tholpetty forests, making it all the more intriguing.
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A Kerala Bus to Bangalore passing Bavali Bridge and Checkpost of Karnataka side.
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| The elephant in Wayanad Forest |
Before Bavali Check post there is a constant presence of lone elephant too. We met him on several occasions. On last October, on a return journey our long family trip to Tirupathy, in two cars, we met him closely. He is not harmful but not friendly to bike riders. He usually stays and stands like a statue in nights under teak trees near the road about the three kilometres from Bavali. Everybody knows him and generally, he is quite.
That night was truly unforgettable, filled with excitement as everyone in our car, especially the kids, buzzed with energy. We had just spotted a leopard, illuminated by our headlights, only a few meters away from a group of spotted deer. Fortunately, we were the lucky ones to see him while the people in the other car missed out. He was perched on a raised area, and we guessed he was planning to hunt the chital herd. It was around 6 PM, and the light was fading, giving him the perfect cover. The kids were so thrilled that they were screaming, and despite the windows being up, the noise was overwhelming. I worried we might have scared him off before he could make a move on the deer. In just a minute, we caught only a brief glimpse of him. I didn’t stop the slowly moving car, but I hurriedly drove off with the excited and frightened kids after that encounter. Once we reached Bavali, we excitedly shared our experience with the adults in the other car, completely overlooking other sightings like the gaur herds and peacocks.
I was feeling optimistic about spotting more large mammals on our journey. Each time I thought back to those moments, I felt lucky. Today, I was fortunate enough to see the Bavali elephant again. It had only been ten months since our last encounter, but this time, he acted quite differently.
He was munching on fresh leaves against a lush green backdrop, about 75 meters from the road to my right as it curved. As I drove by, I slowed down to snap a photo of the creature in its natural habitat. To my surprise, he started walking toward me. I continued to pass him slowly, sensing he might be irritated and unwilling to stop. He was watching me closely. I maintained a safe distance, with a clear path ahead, and caught a glimpse of him in my rearview mirror. His pace quickened into a slow run as he approached the edge of the road, which was about a meter high. I felt a rush of adrenaline, and my hairs stood on end. He seemed intent on scaring me and let out a loud trumpet. I quickly sped away. The autorickshaw driver behind me witnessed the whole thing. Later, during a break at Bavali, he mentioned that my bags and appearance might have triggered the creature's reaction.
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| Manathavady Bavali Road |
It was near the present /old forest range office the Man eating tiger first taken a mans life. Even at this town area, a Man eater worked and it amused KA.
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| Tiger killed a man here in Mysore road (red cross) |
He describes the weather and leaches not liked by tigers and thought impossible to come to a spot like Manantoddy. After interviewed some forest individual he confirmed it is a tiger by pugmarks.
Anderson Stayed in this Inspection bungalow during his visit at this town. now under PWD, it maintains well and neatly
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| Anderson Stayed in this Inspection bungalow during his visit at this town. now under PWD, it maintains well and neatly |
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| IB |
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| TB, Now in an abandoned state. This was functioned as DMO office till recently. |
Initially, I assumed that this old building known as Tourist Bungalow, we called it TB is used by KA. I knew that a lot of Britons and high-class government officials used this building. even William Logan the famous historian described the building and Manantoddy town in his book Malabar Manual.
But Anderson's description about the Brits fort and its own cemetery is in favour of the IB. The Latin church and its centuries-old cemetery situate just opposite to the first building know as Inspection bungalow- IB and it situates a hillside on the same hill, known as Hospital Hill.
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| This 1960 photo taken at a point just in front of IB. Most of the buildings in the background are still exists there in the same shape. Look at the quality of the roads. All are mud/gravel roads, meant for transportation for bullock carts or this type of ambulance. Assumed that people in this picture, do not belong from the tribal community, but relatively high profile Christian family in that time. Photo took in front of the present village office /Panchayath office. |
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| This photo was taken at a point just in front of IB, as of today at the same location. |
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| Mananthavady District hospital complex, |
KA mentioned Mananthavady Travelers bungalow in his story, He stayed here. He assisted the woodcutter to admit in the hospital, which is now functioned as District hospital, is situated within 500 meters. Even in the Malabar Manual, this area and building described as an important place.
Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary
Mananthavady to Bavali- The route described by KA is now a state highway and runs mostly through forest. Though development and agricultural activities flourish in this area, the greenery and density of forest never lost. North Wayanad reserve forest in Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Begur range, Tholpetty range and Mananthavady range consists of Animals of all kind flourishing in Wayanad, Nagarhole, and Bandipur belt. Thanks to the forest departments all three states in this area. But still, there is widespread pseudo-fear of proposed Tiger reserve and conflict with animals is not uncommon.
The root cause of the opposition to the Gadgil report is related to land Mafia. The common and farmers fear Tiger project will bring less demand for their land which is relatively at high prices.
The Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, situated between Bavali and Tholpetty, is popularly known as Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary. Muthanga is located at around 16 km from Sulthan Bathery, while Tholpetty is situated north of Wayanad, near Thirunelli. It is the second largest wildlife sanctuary in the state which covers an extensive area and is close to the Bandipur Tiger Reserve in the state of Karnataka.
strikingly scenic, this sanctuary is known for its sub-tropical savannahs, picturesque hill stations, sprawling spice plantations, luxuriant forests and rich cultural traditions. A holistic confluence of wilderness, history and culture, Wayanad is located on the southern tip of the magnificent Deccan plateau. Landscapes as diverse as savannahs, wooded hills and evergreen forests, all rolled into one place – Wayanad. The district also has a history as interesting as its landscape. It is believed that human life existed here from as early as 4000 BC.
Wayanad Sanctuary receives heavy rainfall from the last week of May till September. Around 1/3rd of the entire sanctuary is covered with trees, I went through mostly teak plantation but there is plantation like eucalyptus, silver oak, and .rosewood.
The sanctuary is inhabited by different animal species, such as elephants, deer, big cats, monkeys, sambar, Malabar squirrel, panther, langurs, bonnet macaques, bison and bear, among others.
Bavali is a small village which demarks Kerala Karnataka border on Bavali River.
I observed in my entire trip nobody checked in me in any check posts. Bavali Check posts also no exception, and I am in Karnataka.
I diverted my route to visit DB kuppe, or Bairakuppa. Kabani River here bordering to Perikkallor of Kerala. Dense forest starts again and I progressed very slowly. I wished to sight some animal. Only before a week ago we, 3 bike riders, sighted the old tiger within 30 meters from the road in the same route.
Bavali offers a fantastic experience, allowing you to feel the mist and chill of Wayanad. Here’s a tip for my readers: try to cross the forest around 6 PM. If you're coming from Mysore, consider stopping for tea in a village called Karapura, just before the check post. It closes at 6 PM, but there's a bus at 6:15 that you can catch. While it does come with some risks, you might be rewarded with plenty of wildlife sightings. For various reasons, we always choose to cross the forest at this hour. If you're traveling from the Kerala side, Bavali is a great spot to take a break. Just be mindful not to linger too long after crossing the bridge, as the Karnataka side of Bavali is known for its affordable liquor, attracting visitors even from Mananthavady.
Just travelling for 15 to 16 Kms from Bavali, near a junction as we take a right turn towards Mysore we enter the thick forests, adjacent to Karnakataka border.
I passed through small villages Byrankuppe and machur , Gundathur then came Kakana kote and then Karapurawhere kabini jungle lodge belongs.
At Bavali they say 7 streams join at one place into Kabini, we came to know about that at Balle (20 to 25 km after Bavali Check post). Right from the Karnataka Kerala border the Rajiv Gandhi National Reserve forest area begins. It’s a part of Nagarahole reserve forest area of which this one is called Kakana Kote reserve forest area.
The road from here is too good and the dense forest beauty makes you forget all this and at one point I felt that it’s good that road is bad, so only we could go slow and enjoy the nature than just cruising fast through the forest area. On the way, I captured some scenic spots, a group of people collecting wood & working out to remove a lorry stuck in the mud and at Balle some photographs of the tamed elephants.
I was wondering if I could find some wildlife in that forest area. I know that during the rainy season we generally don’t see the wildlife on the roadside because there will be a lot of food and water available to the animals deep inside the forest.
But luck was there with me, I could spot Sambar deers, Fawn deers, wild Boar, Peacock and a huge family of birds On the way, I could also spot some fresh dung of elephants that gave us an indication that elephants would have passed that way either y’day evening or early morning. But sooner we got glimpses of elephants grazing on wild.
I have given an elaborate description of my recent sightings. Because I never met any other wild animals on my entire trip in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu forests. I will explain other things only. But I felt the presence of animals on some occasions. Wait for that.
Kabini and Khedda
Kenneth Anderson described in Tiger Roars he often visits and known to Kakan kote forest and keddahs. As a Native of Wayanad, I know there were elephant captives areas in the forest. A lot of stories about animals, poachers and sandalwood smugglers were in the air at my childhood. I remembered one of the famous heroes was called Rocket Balan and he drives his jeep like a rocket to escape from officials. After so many years, in my college time, met him and travelled in his jeep. And from him, I heard about the khedda operations mainly in Karnataka area. Now I got an opportunity to study the practice in detail. let's go for it.
History and art have shown pieces of evidence of this practice from Chandragupta Maurya’s period in the records of the Greek Ambassador, Megasthenes. He writes about how female elephants were used as decoys to lure male elephants into enclosures or deep trenches.
The Mysore Khedda, however, enjoyed royal patronage and had the attraction of a river drive as well. “About 36 kheddas were done in the Kakanakote forest and the river drive was started by a Briton, GP Sanderson, in honour of the visit of the Duke of Russia in the 19th century,” according to the Naturalist. The Kheddas, which lasted for an entire century, ended in 1970s. Today, the Khedda site,, is submerged under water after the construction of the Kabini dam.
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| Keddah site of Kakana kote. Now submerged in water after the construction of Kabini dam |
Kakanakote Keddah
Capturing a herd of wild elephants was no easy task. After the first successful elephant capturing operation, the forests of Kakanakote became synonymous with the kheddas.
The elephant capturing party consisted of human beaters, mahouts, guards, helpers and domesticated elephants called kumkis. Once a large herd of elephants was identified for capture, the hunting party surrounded the herd giving them no route for escape. A relatively large fenced enclosure of about 6-8 miles in circumference was erected encompassing the herd. The area was well equipped with cover, fodder and water to make it easy to confine the elephants. When the elephants tried to stray, large fires, shouts, drums and shots were used to scare the elephants and hold them back in the fenced area. The construction of a khedda commenced soon after the elephants were surrounded. The size of the enclosure was about 20-50 yards in diameter and about 12 feet in height. The fortification was strongly backed by sloping supports and binders. The location selected for the construction of the khedda was such that it was hidden behind the cover of the undergrowth and was generally on one of the elephants’ chief runs. The gate was made strong and had iron spikes embedded on it. To guide the elephants into entering the stockade two lines of strong palisades flanked the path of entry. Human beaters drove the petrified elephants into the funnel-shaped path and closed in from behind.
After the elephants were impounded into the khedda, mahouts on kumkis entered the scene. It is said that the wild elephants often calmed down at the sight of their domesticated counterparts. The mahouts used this to their advantage and surrounded the wild elephants. The helper seated at the back used an iron rod to the prod the elephant that would eventually lift its wounded leg and fall trap to the noose in the hand of the rope-tier. Using the same procedure the other three legs and neck of the elephant were lassoed and the wild elephant would eventually succumb to the wounds and pain.
The Kakanakote Kheddas were also famous for the river-drive operations in which wild elephants were driven across the river Kabini into a stockade. It is said that Sanderson designed the river-drive in honour of the Grand Duke of Russia during his visit in 1891. This crude method of capturing wild elephants was a spectacle for the visitors and a matter of immense pride for the officers in charge. Hordes of spectators seated in special galleries for visitors were witness to the event.
Kabini River Lodge
Today, the happy hunting grounds of the royalty attract tourists in large numbers. The Rajiv Gandhi National Park (formerly Nagarahole National Park) abounds with wildlife. The century-old Maharaja Bungalow and Viceroy Bungalow in Kharapura are a part the Kabini River Lodge, the first resort of the Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a government of Karnataka undertaking.
If you boat cruising on the River Kabini, u may see herds of elephants and alone tuskers walking majestically on its banks. I gazed at the old black and white photographs hanging on the walls of the Maharaja Bungalow, formerly the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore. This is the closest I can get to this piece of history dangling across the jungles of the Mysore State.
Then passed Balle elephant camp. I have nothing more to see there. The camp is one of its kind training camps to re-train these elephants. Elephants are free to go wild and most of the travellers are excited to see a wild elephant. They come out during the feeding time. The little fella in the picture takes pleasure in running after the feeders as they carry food from the store.
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| The newly constructed deviated road on left leading to Kakankote. This is to avoid the Core area of the forest. |
Khedda Operation
Surrounded by the pristine forests of the Kakanakote range, Kabini has its own heritage tag, as it was once the hunting ground of the Mysore Maharaja.
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| Photo from the last khedda, drummers drove all the wild elephants into the water as the domestic elephants surrounded them. They were subsequently driven into an enclosure and were caught |
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| From kankanakote forest |
If you think about the fate of those innocent creatures, you may have tears in my eyes as I do. Imagine, the drummers drove all the wild elephants into the water as the domestic elephants surrounded them. They were subsequently driven into an enclosure and were caught using ropes. It was distressing to hear the cries of the elephants that fell into the pits. Today, the Khedda site, interestingly, is submerged under water after the construction of the Kabini dam. The elephants now enjoy a clear path to travel from the Nagarhole forest to the Bandipur stretch. Their only intruders are ‘shutterbugs’ like us who will simply not let them be.
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| Roping Operation - Kabini Khedda. |
This is a photograph taken during the last Khedda in Kabini. It shows the roping operation wherein trained elephants with mahouts would enter the stockade and separate the captured elephants and rope them. This was an extremely dangerous task and used to be carried out with extreme brutality. As you can see the roped wild animal has a large wound on its trunk.
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| A view from Kakanakote |
All old Photos: Courtesy to Ms. Lakshmi Sharath
I passed two more villages. the road is newly tarred and smooth. No other vehicles in the vicinity. I could ride fast in these planes. but I continued slowly to taste every aspect of the beauty of that day. It is a big relax I got from the cool air.
Once we reached close to HD kote hand post area, I saw a sudden change in geography plateau. Leave back all the dense forest and embrace the plain agricultural land. This place is very close to Jungle lodges on the Kabini Banks. It does not mean that the forest is over from this place, but the density of trees comes down drastically as the land is vegetated.
I wanted to go through Mysore city to take a look at mt Yezdi bike which is given for restoration.
I couldn't find the shop owner and I continued to sreerangapatnam and then to Mandya.
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| Mandya |
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| Wanted to see a Kannada movie. But show already started. |
Winding this episode when in Mandya, a big town. I wanted to go up to Malavally, but the condition of the road turned me back. after going about 2 km I thought I returned to Mandya I took too long to locate a suitable place to reside. Later Thanked for this decision as there was a lean possibility to find a lodge the in Malavally.
